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Purnell has Done What It Does Best By Creating Something Unprecedented

Perpetual Renewal

These are mainly unique pieces or part of extremely limited series. At the end of the day, the only certainty is that the probability of coming across a collector with the same Purnell as oneself is almost nil. This ultra-exclusive Maison catering to a (highly) discerning audience is founded on peerless watchmaking expertise. And while the brand with its constantly growing reputation could have opted for a gradual opening towards a broader public, it is taking a radically opposite path by becoming increasingly rare, exclusive and technical. 

What is most interesting is its capacity for self renewal, given that the founding principle remains unchanged since its launch: the dazzling triple-axis tourbillon developed by Éric Coudray. The brand interprets it in single or double versions framed by a 48mm case. However, his construction is not a culmination but instead a starting point. Towards which goal, one might well ask? That is for each collector to decide. A visit to Purnell’s website is enough to realize that the concept of ‘series’ or ‘collection’ is almost non-existent. The visitor is immediately invited to create not a Purnell, but his Purnell. 

The new Escape II is the best example of this. This “Treasure Baguette Rainbow” proudly displays the double “Spherion” in the lower part of its dial and these two triple-axis tourbillons feature likewise gemset cages. The bezel is adorned with a rainbow gradient pattern, ending in a last row of diamonds at 6 o’clock. This ingenious “treasure” simply refuses to choose between Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie.

Colour in the Spotlight

Total transparency

Speaking of renewal naturally calls for a closer look in parallel at the Absolute Sapphire, which is graced with the same gemset double Spherion, and is also one of a kind. The comparison ends there, however, as this other “Escape II” swaps the brilliance of jewels for the transparency of sapphire – or more specifically its translucence, since the sapphire in question is tinted in a delicious mint green allowing the light to shine through. Has Purnell already used this particular shade in the form of “neon” green or forest green? No, this one is unique. The Maison has created it exclusively for this “Absolute Sapphire” – representing the peak of ultra-exclusivity. This model that is all about transparency seems to want to erase its bridges and mainplate in order to leave the starring role to the Spherion. 

Colour in the Spotlight

The third timepiece is the Escape Medusa. Is it simpler or more complicated? That’s a tricky question. It admittedly has a single tourbillon, and it is probably because it is alone, suspended in the void, that Purnell has given this 30-seconds flying tourbillon two cages: a technical one enabling it to rotate in thirty seconds; and a surrounding cage like an airy blue protective bubble housing the precious regulating organ almost in a vacuum. Representing a delicate and subtle composition, the Medusa drives hours and minutes hands on a sapphire dial set with baguette-cut diamonds.

Colour in the Spotlight

A Tourbillon In A Ballon d'Or 

While the world of football sponsorship was thought to be saturated, Purnell’s ingenuity has enabled it in two masterful moves to find its way into subtle gaps within the football world in order to land two major partnerships.

Colour in the Spotlight

The first: AS Monaco. While football watches are almost always chronographs or smartwatches, neither of these exist at Purnell, so the company has done what it does best: creating something unprecedented.

The ingenious concept involves a lower section that reveals a tourbillon rotating in the heart of a football. Its 30 crystal hexagonal faces – 15 in the red of AS Monaco, and 15 transparent – are all inserted by hand into a titanium structure by Éric Coudray, Purnell’s master watchmaker and inventor of the in-house tourbillon.This improbable suspended sculpture reveals all its intimate secrets, weighing it at an airy 1.12 grams and rotating once every 30 seconds.

The second partnership is with the Ballon d’Or. Every year, it rewards the best male and female player of the year. Purnell has obtained exclusive watchmaking rights for three years. The 2022 edition of this unique timepiece is made of white gold. The tourbillon at 6 o’clock is housed in a literal golden ball, also made of white gold and faceted with 24 hexagons. For equality reasons, the timepiece will be issued in two versions, each with its own engraving: one for the men’s and one for the women’s Ballon d’or winner.

 
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