Roger Dubuis Team Test: WorldTempus X Roger Dubuis
WorldTempus spends a week with the Excalibur MB EON Gold 42mm
Wearing the Excalibur MB EON Gold 42mm on your wrist was a real challenge at work because I couldn’t take three steps without someone stopping me to take a look. The unusual EON gold used for the case didn’t help. This gold alloy is more resistant to tarnishing and has a colour that is perhaps closest to rose gold. It is also found on the micro-rotor located between 10 and 11 o’clock. This smaller rotor has been chosen to let the light penetrate the movement as much as possible (just like the rest of the dial), and has an ultra-stylized design that is accompanied by the Roger Dubuis logo. It would seem that disruptivity is not simply a matter of showing off, but it is also hidden in the details.
Excalibur MB EON Gold © Jordy Bellido/WorldTempus
At first glance, everything about the Excalibur MB EON Gold 42mm from Roger Dubuis reflects exclusivity. The EON gold of its case is made from a new, more resistant, patented, rose gold alloy, which is also found on its notched bezel with its grooves that echo the hour markers on the flange. Immediately, one’s gaze slides to the remarkable skeletonization of the movement at the centre of the Excaliber Automatic, and in particular the five-pointed star that stretches over two-thirds of the surface, almost in a space-like dance position. Also, in two-tone, the micro-rotor evokes a ship from Star Wars. The gold hands hover over this highly technical aerial decoration, while ensuring utmost legibility, which is not always the case with skeletonized pieces. The structured brown leather strap goes well with the overall aesthetic, which makes you want to admire it comfortably in an arm chair, perhaps with a glass of champagne in the other hand!
Excalibur MB EON Gold Brice Lechevalier/WorldTempus
It has been a while since I had the chance to have a Roger Dubuis timepiece on my wrist. And now that it is sitting here comfortably on my arm, I am feeling rather emotional. Clearly, it is unique. The work on the movement is incredible – Bravo Gregory (Product Strategy Director) and your teams for this creation. The finishing is also something else with its bevelling and more bevelling that is in line with the Poinçon de Genève standards. I particularly like the “Star Wars-style” hands too, which are from another world. This is really an extremely beautiful skeleton timepiece. What can I say? I am still in love with the brand!
Excalibur MB EON Gold © Jean-Christophe Teigner/WorldTempus
I perhaps shouldn’t say this, but I am not overly crazy about skeleton movements; I much prefer to have the movement appear as a surprise behind a sapphire crystal case back. I also love the art of dial making, so maybe I feel a little cheated when there isn’t one on a watch. But the Roger Dubuis Excalibur MB EON Gold 42mm is something else entirely. The architecture of the RD720SQ automatic movement, with its five-pointed star bridge over the barrel and micro rotor that moves with you, is particularly eye-catching. Add to this a case crafted from a new alloy called EON gold, that is not only more resistant to salt water, but also a little less shiny than traditional gold, and the aesthetic is extremely appealing. The finishing is to the highest watchmaking standards set out by the Poinçon de Genève, so every curve, angle and surface is polished to perfection. If there was a skeleton timepiece to change my mind about open-worked movements, I think this could well be it!
Excalibur MB EON Gold © Sophie Furley/WorldTempus
Independence and excellence are the cornerstones of Roger Dubuis, a Manufacture guided by its belief in living larger than life. Remarkably dynamic, Roger Dubuis has developed more than 23 totally original in-house calibres for an exceptional craftmanship mastery. In a subtle alliance of traditional watchmaking expertise and avant-garde technology, the Manufacture Roger Dubuis excels in its mastery of architectural skeletonised movements.Find out more >
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