It’s not an easy subject. If you look at its definition it is the part of expression that is left to the freedom of the individual, is not directly imposed by standards, rules of use or language. It is, therefore, intimately linked to a person and speaks of emotion, image, projection or intention.
Whether or not something or someone has style is even more difficult to determine. Because there is style as seen by the person at its origin and style as seen by others. So what makes the style of a watch? There are necessarily several answers. Style is the integration of various components (case, dial, strap, buckle) in an innovative, unusual or different way. Sometimes style is linked to functionality (the reversible case of the Reverso), sometimes it is purely aesthetic (the Chopard Happy Sport).
So what is taste? If we take the Oxford English Dictionary definition, taste is “the ability to discern what is of good quality or of a high aesthetic standard”.
Even if style and taste are closely linked, they are still two different things. One comes from the person projecting it by deviating from the norm, the other evaluates them in accordance with a norm. Style is linked to a person, taste is linked to an environment, an era or a social reference.
The ideal, of course, is to be considered to have style (“brand identity”) and taste (the ability to incorporate one’s style into chosen norms).
As far as watches are concerned, style and taste are important considerations. The watch was born as a utilitarian object but quickly became a social marker. This has persisted and both style and taste have a big influence in the watch industry.
Choosing a watch makes one aspect unavoidable: we choose a watch because we like it. The watch has to conform to a style and convey an image. The aesthetic characteristics have become more important than its technical specifications. Digitalisation has made the “technical” horological object obsolete, at the same time accentuating its stylistic dimension.
A watch is therefore a fundamental aspect of one’s personal style. And there is something for everyone! Whether your style is classical, sporty, bohemian, vintage, serious or off-beat, it doesn’t matter. There will always be a watch to match your mood of the day.
Aside from being part of your style, each watch also has its own style. But some have more style than others. This is why some of them are referred to using the overused term “icon”.
The style of a watch is created by an alignment between design, functionality, history, “components” and a perception, either in the present or the future. It is a magical vision that brings together, in an innovative, unusual or different way, various components (case, dial, strap, buckle) to create a coherent and unique unit that works, in both senses of the word.
These “iconic” pieces are born, then disappear, then reappear in revised form. It’s difficult to consider their style, therefore, since it is the result of public appeal and integration in a particular period and to a particular norm.
When you think about style, you may think of the Reverso, the Royal Oak, the Laureato, the Nautilus or the J12. The strength of these watches is that they marked their eras. Each of these watches rose above the brand that designed them, in some cases to the point of becoming a handicap. Sometimes too much style stifles innovation. Like an actor who has been pigeonholed into certain roles, it can be difficult to change the image of a watch with a strong design.
The success of a number of watch brands is based on one or several watches that marked their era through their style. But there is one brand that stands out in this story of design: Cartier.
Why Cartier?
The first question we could ask is whether Cartier really is a watch brand.
If you believe that a “watchmaker” should only produce watches, then it isn’t. But having been established as a jeweller in 1847 Cartier quickly added watches to its collection.
But if your evaluation criteria is age and the brand’s impact on the watch industry and its history, then, yes, Cartier thoroughly deserves its place among the giants in watchmaking.
While other brands have entered the watchmaking hall of fame thanks to their development of instruments to measure time, Cartier took another route, using style.
The French brand’s creations are all very distinctive. From this point of view, Cartier is quite unique because it has a catalogue chock full of iconic watches. This is quite an achievement.
Why? Because one “iconic” watch tends to overshadow all the others, taking centre stage and never leaving the limelight. For that reason, it can penalise brands who think they are obliged to keep it alive and undisturbed. But at Cartier, things are different.
Its list of divas is impressive: Tank, Pasha, Panthère, Tortue and Ballon Bleu.
Each of these watches is different from the others, yet each incorporates common design elements that are beloved of the Maison. This is another exceptional accomplishment by Cartier: developing styles or creating new ones while at the same time connecting its different creations using easily recognisable elements. There are the Roman numerals, the cabochon on the crown, the sword-shaped hands and the railway minute scale on the dial.
In 1978 Cartier added a stainless-steel bracelet to the Santos. Its design is so distinctive that it became inextricably linked to the watch. A few years later, Cartier invented a detachable strap for its Roadster, which allowed owners to adapt the style of their watch according to their mood.
Cartier has thus known how to create style for quite some time. Its creations all have their own story. But among the stars, there is one that deserves special attention. For watch fans, it’s the first. It’s name is Santos.
The Cartier Santos, a first that lasts
There always has to be a first time.
Sometimes it’s a failure, others a nice memory. Sometimes it can be the start of a never-ending story. Before the Santos there were pocket watches that the more avant-garde people strapped to their wrist. But this fad would not last. Because Louis Cartier met Alberto Santos-Dumont.
The renowned Brazilian aviator was a pioneer. He started flying balloons before turning to light aircraft and even helicopters. This was on the eve of the 20th century.
But the adventurer was frustrated at not being able to read the time on his pocket watch when he was flying. Thus came the big idea: create a watch that could be worn on the wrist, be legible, practical and simple.
Not only had Louis Cartier just invented the first wristwatch, he had also invented the first pilot’s watch. Two world firsts in one! This was in 1904.
It was not until 1911, however, that the watch was first produced. When we think of pilot’s watches we think round, black dial, large size, large crown and thick leather strap.
The Santos is exactly the opposite.
This Santos was small, square, in gold, with a light beige strap. Its dial was white, its Roman numerals and its hands Breguet style. Santos-Dumont’s Santos did not have a crystal surrounded by a screwed frame. Only the first commercial versions launched in 1919 bore this design trait that has been a trademark of the Santos ever since.
The Santos would see a number of evolutions in its career, one of the most significant being the addition of a stainless-steel bracelet in 1978. This bracelet with fine links decorated with screws became another signature element of the Santos.
We could say that the “modern” Santos was born.
In 2018, 40 years later, Cartier has decided to bring the Santos in line with contemporary tastes, and offers us a Santos that is exceptional for several reasons.
In terms of style, we can find everything that made the watch famous: the square shape with curved profile, the bezel fixed by eight screws, the octagonal crown, the cabochon, the white dial and the Roman numerals.
The watch is available in two sizes, 35.1 mm by 41.9 mm or 39.8mm by 47.5mm, in stainless steel, steel and gold or gold.
Cartier also chose to offer its Santos with the famous “screw” bracelet from 1978. But this has been redesigned. And how!
First of all, the links can easily be removed, without needing a watchmaker. You just press a pusher on each link to release it. It’s simple, practical and almost revolutionary (Apple got there first). The Santos also has a quick change system for the bracelet, inspired by the Cartier Roadster.
Furthermore, if you are expecting more good news, here it is: each Santos comes with a steel bracelet and a leather strap with folding clasp. The quality of the leather strap is beyond reproach and I love the combinations of classic and vintage stitching.
The Santos is powered by the Cartier in-house calibre 1847 MC. The big Santos has a date, the small one doesn’t.
The watch is water resistant to 100 metres and has a screw-in solid case back. All this ensures that the Santos can adapt to many different styles yet conserve its own. It can be sporty, dressy, fun or serious. It’s adaptability is impressive!
With this watch Cartier puts the Santos back on the road to glory.
It’s time for it to take off.
What does the devil’s advocate think?
It’s difficult to find fault with the Santos.
You could bemoan the lack of luminescent hour markers, but there is always the iPhone for checking the time at night.
My main concern is with the folding clasp on the leather strap. It is classical but not very practical when it comes to adjusting the strap. The way the strap is attached to the buckle is also a little finnicky and also risks damaging the leather.
How to wear the Cartier Santos with style?
The versatility of the Santos means that it can adapt to any style.
My preferred combination is the 40mm model on the gold leather strap. Over time, the leather takes on a patina that accentuates the sporty look of the Santos. The quick change system means that you cannot use non-Cartier straps, but the brand offers a lot of nice colour options : red, orange, petrol blue and even green.
If you choose a gold Santos, take the smaller model, with the gold bracelet. Then all you need to do is watch the film Wall Street and opt for a Gordon Gecko style: tennis stripe suits, white collar shirt, braces and an aggressive look!
If you prefer the steel model, combine its everyday appeal with a suit in the same style. I would opt for a Zegna in grey “Wash & Go” Technomerino, a pair of John Lobb Holme shoes in dark blue calfskin suede, the indispensable white shirt and, why not, a navy-blue hooded waistcoat in light cashmere (Kujten.com). Another option could be a navy-blue cashmere polo shirt by Éric Bompard.
All you need to do then is choose the colour of the strap, between serious (gold) or more original (orange or red).
And you’re ready for your flight. Once you’re above the clouds, spare a thought for the pioneers of flight who were heroes, adventurers and people with style.
