Time passes and icons remain unscathed. Since the launch of the first Calatrava in 1932, Patek Philippe has achieved the feat of preserving the supremely timeless appeal of this extremely refined model. Never out of fashion and expressing the quintessence of aestheticism through the absolute purity of its shapes, the Calatrava has made its way through the decades while losing nothing of its classically restrained style, yet finding means of reinventing itself in subtle ways. In its ongoing quest for eternity, Patek Philippe has thus been careful to avoid endowing the Calatrava with any particular trend elements, instead wisely anchoring it in each passing era.
The secret of such longevity doubtless lies in its round shape, its slim silhouette and its mechanical heart that has always been a perfect match for men’s watches. It also resides in a judicious blend of modernity and classicism, ancestral expertise and aesthetic innovation, cleverly distilled over time. The two new Calatrava models unveiled this year are a magnificent demonstration of this approach. Christened Calatrava “Timeless White”, reference 7122 draws its strength from the pure, understated lines of the very first Calatrava, reference 96. But this time it appears draped in an all-white mantle that highlights diamonds. So as to provide more room for gemsetting, the ultra-thin pink or white gold case features a new construction featuring integrated lugs that appear to flow into the case. This space gives free rein to the exceptional dexterity of Patek Philippe artisans who, by using brilliant-cut diamonds or various dimensions, have succeeded in setting the lateral strings right to the outermost tips, thereby eliminating the need for the customary “filling grains”. At the heart of this precious halo, the lacquered white dial shines with matchless purity, an immaculate stage gracefully danced across by the hours, minutes and small seconds hands. Backstage, the show is equally remarkable with a mechanical 215 PS caliber whose extreme precision guarantees a tolerance of -3/+2seconds per day, a margin far more stringent than ordinary requirements.
Calatrava “Timeless White”, reference 7122
Case: white or pink gold set with diamonds, water-resistant to 30m
Diameter: 33mm
Movement: mechanical manually wound, Caliber 215 PS, 44h power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
Dial: white lacquered and polished, hour-markers with hobnail pattern in 18K gold
Caseback: sapphire crystal
Strap: pearly white alligator leather with large square scales
Keeping the flamme
While time is also marked off by an ultra-thin caliber whose superb finishing and 22K gold rotor can be admired through the sapphire caseback, the new Calatrava reference 7200/200R bearing the Patek Philippe Seal is essentially distinguished by its luminous new apparel. To accentuate this model with the fire of diamonds, Patek Philippe has developed a new type of gemsetting technique named Flamme®. The pink gold bezel of the watch is thus adorned with 142 diamonds in two staggered rows using a clever yet delicate technique. After bending over each diamond a small gold prong serving to secure it on one side, the gemsetter “splits” the gold between the diamonds using a sharp flat burin. Pushed aside, the gold material forms small supports that secure the two diamonds on either side of the groove. The result is stunning. Once polished, the thin apertures allow the light to shine through from below and be reflected even more radiantly. Supreme jewelry-making mastery that offers a beautiful moment of eternity to the woman who chooses the Calatrava.
Calatrava reference 7200/200R
Case : officer-type case with a “Flamme®” setting of 142 diamonds, water-resistant to 30m
Diameter : 34.6mm
Movement : mechanical self-winding, Caliber 240, 48h power reserve
Functions : hours, minutes
Dial : silvery grained
Caseback : sapphire crystal
Strap : shiny royal purple alligator leather with large square scales
