Three Expressions of the Tourbillon
Abraham-Louis Breguet gradually developed the tourbillon over the years and his descendants perfected it. It has been a process of continuous progress that the Manufacture continues to this day, as confirmed by three new models.
The first is the Tradition Tourbillon 7047. Technically, it features a dual regulation system via the tourbillon as well as through a constant force escapement patented by the great watch-maker in 1798. In this so-called “fusee-and-chain” transmission device, the chain unwinds around a cone-shaped element – the fusee, originally a French word for spindle – featuring a progressively narrower diameter. When the mainspring is fully wound and ready to deliver its maximum power, the chain acts on the top
of the fusee, which has the smallest circumference. Its torque decreases as the chain unwinds, while at the same time moving to the wider part of the fusee. These two simultaneous actions cancel each other out and thus ensure a steady power output. In the new version, the precious module appears in a Bleu de France color, as do the dial and bridges. For the first time, the Bleu de France Grand Feu enamel dial features a chapter ring with Arabic numerals.
“This edition is probably the most exclusive we have ever created for the Tradition Tourbillon 7047. A platinum case, a Bleu de France dial, a 25-piece limited edition and a Breguet signature hand-engraved using a pantograph.”
Gregory Kissling, CEO Montres Breguet
The Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 offers an alternative take on the tourbillon. The Manufacture links it to the other great scientific adventure in Abraham-Louis Breguet’s life: his appointment by Louis XVIII as Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy on 27 October 1815. Backed by a perpetual calendar, the équation marchante (running equation of time) indicates the difference between conventional time – which is constant and displayed on the main dial – and solar time, which varies by values ranging from -16 to +14 minutes per day depending on the time of year, due to the elliptical shape of the Earth’s orbit. The difference is indicated by an additional minutes hand. The dial features a miniature painting in luminescent enamel depicting the night sky, with its constellations and the Moon in their exact positions as seen from Paris on 26 June 1801.
The third and particularly aptly named “Expérimentale 1” interpretation of the tourbillon is the most disruptive and avant-garde of the trio. This timepiece enhances the tourbillon’s precision by having it operate at a high 10Hz frequency ensuring that the escapement returns more quickly to its normal amplitude after being disrupted by shocks, acceleration or deceleration. Furthermore, a controlled magnetic field counteracts the variation in the escapement’s amplitude caused by the decreasing energy it receives as the power reserve runs down. The idea is to create a constant-force tourbillon: below a certain magnetic field intensity, the magnetic tourbillon stops; whereas above this threshold, it oscillates at a constant frequency. The 10Hz magnetic tourbillon is thus more stable and more accurate than most contemporary wristwatches.
The 7357 Exception
Reference 3350 is a legendary model known to all Breguet collectors. In 1989, it was the first tourbillon wristwatch produced by the modern day Breguet. Its movement named Caliber 558 features a tourbillon at 6 o’clock, a layout that went on to be adopted by virtually the entire industry.
The Classique Tourbillon 7357 marks a new chapter in the history of Reference 3350 and its movement has been further enhanced to mark the occasion. Caliber 558 has become Caliber 187B. It retains its historic frequency of 2.5Hz used by Breguet himself as well as in 1989.
This caliber has been optimized. It is non magnetic – which is why the hands are made of gold rather than steel – so as to prevent magnetic interference with the movement. The power reserve has been increased 20% to reach 60 hours. Breguet’s boldest design choice is the watch’s 35mm diameter: a compact size prized by collectors and very much in vogue as it is perfectly unisex. Breguet offers two variations that unusually are not limited editions, both featuring the same Clous de Paris and barleycorn guilloché dial. The first is in platinum on a gray calfskin strap; the second is in Breguet gold on a beige calfskin strap.
"It was single-handedly thanks to Caliber 558 that the tourbillon made its spectacular return. Ushering in a new generation of this movement was a heavy responsibility."
Gregory Kissling, CEO Montres Breguet
