A l'Emeraude Behind The Success Of The 2020 Rolex White-Gold Submariner
Decoding the seductive allure of the white-gold Submariner with black dial and blue Cerachrom bezel, key among the Rolex novelties of 2020.
Presented at the beginning of September, the new Rolex Submariner in white gold is now available — for Switzerland, notably in Lausanne, at the boutique A l’Emeraude — and has been as of October. But what is it about this newcomer that makes it such a hit? First of all, this Submariner is a watch with the “Professional” appellation, closely linked with the history of diving. The range, particularly the steel models, is considered the most popular Rolex collection. Over time, the “Sub” — as it’s affectionately named in brief — has acquired the status of an emblematic watch, to which the 2020 evolution has added finer proportions and a longer power reserve. Finally, the appearance of the white-gold version really hits the target, with a black dial and a bezel insert in blue Cerachrom (the proprietary ceramic material of Rolex), all perfectly complemented by the brilliant case and bracelet.
Submariner Date © Rolex
An Iconic Professional Watch
The 2020 white-gold Submariner is the beneficiary to a prestigious heritage, both in terms of technology and watchmaking history. Since its debut at the 1953 edition of Baselworld, The “Sub” has had quite a journey! It was the first diving wristwatch that was water-resistant to 100m; its graduated turning bezel allows measuring of time intervals, an essential function when timing dive stops during ascent. As part of standard equipment for — among others — COMEX (Compagnie maritime d’expertise) divers as well as equipping the wrist of James Bond in Dr No — among others — the Submariner forged a solid reputation as a professional diving watch, but also as a coveted wrist accessory. The Submariner is, as stated by watch auction specialist Aurel Bacs (Phillips, Bacs & Russo) in Le Temps, what is known as a “Grail Watch”.
« Sub » © Rolex
The Advantage Of The 2020 Rolex Submariner
This year, the latest-generation Submariner has been given a new look, with significant work on the finishing of the case, including the sides and lugs. Thanks to the reworked proportions and volumes, the Submariner's case appears thinner, while the diameter is increased by 1mm — making it now a shapely 41mm in diameter. The lugs have been refined and the Rolex Oyster bracelet enlarged, this time again creating the impression of slimmer links, and benefiting from a patented safety clasp, the Glidelock. With a power reserve of almost 70 hours, the calibre 3235, equipped with a Parachrom balance-spring with paramagnetic properties, makes its debut in the collection.
Calibre 3235 © Jean-Daniel Meyer
Following The Success Of The Smurf!
Another novelty of the year for this white-gold Submariner, the blue bezel is combined with a black dial that is reminiscent of the colours of the sought-after GMT-Master II "Batman". and "Batgirl". Above all, the black dial proves ideal for underwater readability and is even more reminiscent of its original identity as a professional watch. "As far as we are concerned, we find this configuration more elegant than the previous Submariner in white gold [also called the Smurf], which had a bezel disc matching the blue dial,” states @Watchanalytics, a specialist in the watch market.
Or gris 18 carats © Rolex
The 18K White-Gold Question
While this precious material does of course increase the price of the model, it gives it a very special lustre, more "luminous" than steel, to those with sharp eyes. "Rolex models in white gold are generally more coveted than other types of gold,” says @Watchanalytics. The reason? White gold can be confused by an uninformed eye with steel, a form of understatement appreciated by connoisseurs. "This Submariner in particular has a 15% increase in value on the market compared to its original price," continues @Watchanalytics. In an approach so characteristic of the "Rolex spirit", this gold comes from the brand's foundry, which makes its own alloys from materials selected and tested with extreme care. As Rolex founder, Hans Wildorf, once said: "Every [Rolex] watch must be an ambassador of quality.” You can say that again!