In 2000, Bulgari bought both the Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta brands. With them came manufactures, designs, skills and customers that the Roman brand lacked. The pair of names were rallied under the Bulgari banner before being folded into it altogether. During those 10 years, the “jeweler of time” hasn't stopped growing, expanding, while launching fewer collections and focusing on its best-sellers. Indeed, Octo and Serpenti have made a name for themselves in a way Bulgari hadn't seen since the 1980s: they've become references.
Octo is the current foundation of Bulgari's mens' watches. Its extreme shape sophistication (110 facets on the case) somehow manages to come in second after the strength of a design that is now in its fourth generation after the original Octo was released. This model is the root of all those that have followed: the skeletons, the minute repeaters and tourbillons, the Roma, the Ultranero, the Velocissimo and Finissimo. It's all there already in the essential Octo, just under the surface or clearly visible, including the incredible bracelet with its ultra-wide links.
One might say that the Octo Finissimo is ultimately a variation of Octo, but that doesn't do it justice. Initially launched as the ultra-thin version of the original model, as was often the case during the past decade, Finissimo has grown out of its skin to become much more. Every time Bulgari fitted it with a new record-thin movement, it gained momentum. Finissimo's belt is now adorned with notches for slimmest automatic, tourbillon, minute repeater and chronograph. But it's not the record that sells. It's great design.
When Bulgari introduced the new Serpenti Tubogas in 2010, it was one of those updated vintage watches that were starting to show up in every brand collection at the time. Quickly, it went up and beyond to take on a life of its own. Rarely has an animal-inspired watch been so aptly designed as this watch that coils around the wrist thanks to the Tubogas bracelet, which is like a sturdy and flexible constrictor snake. Its rounded head which doubles as the case was the sign that something really special was happening inside the Bulgari design studio.
Serpenti has always spawned jewelry versions of itself. Which is only normal since Bulgari is a jeweler, body and soul. Among the many propositions, the Serpenti Misteriosi Handcuff may just be the best. A design shows its true value when it evolves, much like a serpent grows by shedding its skin. Its sheets of malachite show how alive Bulgari's knack for strong colors and hard stones still is. And the secret diamond and ruby viper head enhances the raw animal charisma of the Serpenti, if that was even possible.
It is on the verge of oblivion, but the Ellipsocurvex case, which was designed by Daniel Roth and which Bulgari has put to good use for years, is reference work. Unusual and therefore differentiating, even among the other form cases, perfectly ergonomic and very comfortable, it has been a go-to case for the Bulgari high complications such as the Bulgari Daniel Roth Carillon Tourbillon. The three-chime minute repeater sounded great and the bold openwork design, underlined by an arc of gold atop the sapphire glass, showed that daring lines could result in a watch that was as easy on the eye as it was on the wrist. Both substance and form were at their best.
