I can already hear some nervous giggles. People are thinking it’s difficult to talk about dirtiness and watches in the same sentence and might think that my comments on this Montblanc watch won’t be very positive. But they would be mistaken. So please continue reading this Why not.
The theme of dirtiness and deterioration is particularly apt for our times. Nowadays anything that is dirty is bad. But haven’t things always been like this? Certainly, but given society’s progress, we try to push the limits and live in an ever-cleaner world. Purity is everywhere and people are constantly trying to combat microbes and parasites. But paradoxically, in some countries people are less protected from “dirtiness” and some forgotten diseases are re-emerging.
On the other hand, dirtiness is developing. Pollution, particulates and toxic clouds are becoming more common. We are trying to combat them, sometimes with – small – successes, but the future looks as black as a lung coated with coal dust. Our planet is suffering and rebelling, but we still continue to pollute it.
So we are stuck between extreme cleanliness and absolute dirtiness…
But what has that got to do with watches and watchmaking?
If you look a little closer, the watchmaking industry is in search of this immaculate perfection. An example? Diver’s watch bezels are increasingly made out of ceramic. Why? Because they do not age with time and will remain “just as they were when you bought the watch”. Neither time nor the environment can dirty them and for many this is a good thing.
Another example can be found in case construction. Whether it is Seiko with its Diashield coating or Sinn with Tegiment, many brands try to keep their watches clean for now and evermore. These types of steel withstand shocks and everyday wear and tear. Once again, they will remain as clean as a whistle!
New materials are also being used, either for their stylistic innovation or their solidity and stability. Ceramic can break, but it does not scratch. So people actually prefer the risk of ultimate damage (ask about the cost of replacing a ceramic case) to that of a small scratch that spoils the watch.
And on watch blogs there are countless people who talk about their fear of scratches that could damage the purity of their timepieces!
I could go on even longer, talking about rubber straps that never change or even about people who buy watches but never wear them for fear of damaging them. But it’s now time to cross over to the dirty side of the Force, where imperfection, dirt or stains are synonymous with beauty….
Everything comes from wear and tear from time. The growing enthusiasm for vintage quickly took hold and vintage watches have become fashionable again.
If you like old things and you enjoy rummaging around flea markets and antique shops, you can only respect signs of wear and tear, stains, tears and anything that refers to an object’s history. Instead of being rejected, such traits are actively sought out, to the point that they become a holy grail and push up the values of some pieces.
The new paint in your appartment is cracking? That’s terrible! It’s ugly, repugnant and it needs remedying quickly. But on the dial of a Rolex Submariner that’s called a “spider dial” and it makes your old timepiece a lot more valuable.
A sign of damp in your kitchen? It spreads and takes on a horrible brown colour. The plumber comes and the stain is erased. Phew! But on a Seiko Lord Marvel from June 1968 a dial affected by damp with a slightly beige hue with a few stains is a veritable beauty.
Your hardwood floor is warped by the sun? Your clothes are losing colour and your curtains are fading? The sun is bad and it can also stain… but an Omega Speedmaster whose black dial has slowly changed colour after prolonged exposure to sun becomes a “chocolate dial” that is highly sought-after by collectors. So even bad quality can become an asset.
I could also talk about cases and the ultimate quest for watches that have never been polished. Their case bears the marks of passing time and each impurity tells its own story. That’s why people like them so much.
So the world of collectors is divided between the “clean” and the “dirty”, and that’s not a problem.
But some watches have chosen their camp and shout it from the rooftops. Because they are made out of bronze.
The trend for cases in bronze really started with the first Panerai Bronzo. Before that there was the Gefica by Genta and the first attempts by Panerai (Pre-Vendome) and Anonimo. But the Bronzo started the trend.
In offering a case that takes on a patina over time, Panerai dared to make “dirtiness” something of value. So why use this word that has such a negative connotation? Simply because it’s the one that my wife uses to describe my bronze watches. She says they are all dirty…
A collector would talk of patina and some even try to achieve the ultimate patina in green or red with an aggressive granularity. These attempts will shock those who prefer cleanliness but will delight the courageous “bronzophiles”.
After Anonimo, Genta and Panerai, many other brands followed the same path (IWC, Tudor, Oris, Ennebi and more recently even Hublot). Bronze alloys have evolved and some now age into brown, green and even orange or red hues.
But regardless of their patina, their charm remains intact and with its 1858 chronograph, Montblanc makes a marked entry into the club of “dirty watches”!
Why Montblanc?
I have never been a big fan of the watches by the German brand.
Their writing instruments, however, are monuments for those who enjoy writing. I can still remember my first Meisterstück, which I bought after a student internship. I still have it. I later added a Hemingway to my collection, as well as a Lorenzo de Medici and an Alexandre Dumas.
As far as the watches are concerned, I believe that every brand needs to learn, fail and then re-emerge.
This is what Montblanc has done. Today I see a brand that has become credible, interesting and even attractive. I surprise myself at how much I like some of their collection. For me, the Rieussec models were the starting point and allowed Montblanc to rid itself of its image as a writing instrument brand that just happened to make watches as well. The designers and watchmakers gradually took the collections forward towards maturity with the 1858 but also with the recent TimeWalker collection.
Today the Montblanc catalogue is packed full of beautiful watches. The “Minerva” versions are quite simply exceptional and in my opinion too rare. With such industrial and marketing resources, I dream of seeing the Minerva movements coming back in more watches and in more configurations. The 2018 monopusher chronograph is one of the biggest surprises of the year and I can’t stop admiring its unusual green colour, and its movement leaves me speechless.
But let’s talk about another new model for 2018, which is one of the nicest chronographs currently on the market: the pretty, but potentially also very dirty – 1858 in bronze.
The Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph Bronze: “dirty little beauty”
Montblanc’s 1858 collection uses the old design codes of Minerva (which now belongs to Montblanc) and adds a touch of modernity and even innovation (for example in the form of the suprising Geosphere). This collection probably has the most beautiful watches by the brand, in particular the models with the Minerva calibres.
But at the start of the year, Montblanc also presented a superb chronograph with a strong inspiration from vintage Minerva models like the rare 1940 chronograph (ref. 1335-710230) fitted with the calibre 13-20CH.
This 42mm model, which is offered in steel and bronze, is a success on different levels: first of all thanks to its classic shape with ideal proportions; then there is the choice of a bi-compax chronograph that reinforces the vintage aesthetic but also the simplicity of the dial. And then there are the numerals that make the watch sportier.
I should also mention the pilot style hands that are identical to those found on certain versions of the 1335 models, and the new Montblanc logo that is perfectly in keeping with the spirit of the 1858 collection.
To finish on a high, the steel model comes with a top-quality NATO strap or a deliciously vintage leather strap.
In short, we are talking about one of the best chronographs currently on the market.
As if that was not enough, Montblanc decided to offer this 1858 chronograph in a bronze version that differs from its colleague in two ways. There is, of course, the bronze case that will take on a patina over time. Nobody can say what this patina will look like, but one thing is certain: you will be surprised by its final look. The bronze might “stain” quickly, taking on different colours, and show some green marks on the bezel and lugs. But it could also tend towards a rarer reddish-dark brown, which is often obtained by using a catalyst (sulphur, egg or even… urine). Other possibilities are matt dark brown, green (like on old monuments and statues), as well as multi-coloured “grains”…
Basically, nobody knows, but each one will be different. And that is part of the charm.
But Montblanc has not just offered a bronze case. It has also completely changed the dial for an aged salmon colour that recalls the patina seen on some vintage Minerva watches. The markers are gilt and the hands coated in rose gold. I am convinced that the evolution of the case’s colour will show off this dial even more. It’s just a question of patience…
The titanium case back is treated in the same colour as the bronze case and engraved with an image of Montblanc.
I am delighted that Montblanc has produced such a watch. This 1858 chronograph puts the bar very high and I’m looking forward to the 2019 models….
What does the devil’s advocate think?
As already mentioned, with this 1858 chronograph in bronze, Montblanc already has a star in its collection. It is difficult to find fault with this model. Only a slightly smaller size (39mm) and a thinner profile could make this watch even more attractive.
But my main complaint is about the folding clasp, which is too complicated, too thick and not in harmony with the rest of the watch. A simple pin buckle in bronze would have been much more appropriate.
A part from these two remarks, there is nothing more to say. The 1858 chronograph is a success.
How to wear this watch with a “dirty” style?
The strap offered with the bronze chronograph is nice. But I would like to try it with a leather NATO strap from Bernhard Bulang (Bulang & Sons), or one of their nubuck straps. I would also take the opportunity to change the buckle.
As far as your look is concerned, aged denim is the best choice. My preference would be for a Ralph Lauren Double RL Selvedge, or a Dsquared. Then, forget the shirt and go for a T-shirt. A grey T-shirt from Zadig & Voltaire’s Toby “Hors Service” line would be a fun tribute. You could even wear an aged-look Majestic Filature polo shirt over it.
The shoes need to be resolutely sporty and could be matched to the watch with a green or bronze/gold patina. There are several options, from sneakers such as JM Le Glazel CS9094 or Addisson Genève to Berluti Playtime.
The jacket needs to be of military inspiration, for example by Bulang & Sons (to match the canvas strap), or the highly versatile J. Crew version. To complete the aged look, choose a vintage pilot’s scarf in white silk or camouflage webbing from an army surplus store – ideally well aged!
This not-too-clean look will go well with a watch that will get dirty over time. You’re ready.
Now you just need to wait for time to take its toll and get your chronograph nice and dirty!
