Watches and Wonders and Geneva watch week are still running through my veins. How could it not after seeing 65’000 visitors to the 65 brands at the main show, not forgetting the circa 200 other brands around town.
Despite the huge indie presence, I felt that most people were talking about the big brands. On the first day of the show, we made a film called Day of the Giants, featuring Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, and Tag Heuer. We made three more films with different topics from the show, but we could have remained with the first topic, because the giants were what most people were talking about. Just like the Blue Whale is bouncing back from near-extinction (as seen in the 2023 Return of the Giants documentary), the largest players in the watch industry are back! They are not only producing great watches, but many of them are also increasing their market shares according to business analysts.
The big guys also have some serious anniversaries in 2026. Let’s start with the centenary of Rolex Oyster watertight case. But before we dive into the new pieces, can somebody please explain to me how the Rolex Oyster worn by Mercedes Gleitze on her 1927 "Vindication Swim" only fetched $1.73 million on a 2025 auction given its provenance?
Three of the most talked about Rolex watches at the show were the Oyster Perpetual, the Perpetual 36, and an exceptional Day-Date. Starting with the 41, it has a “100 Years” marking replacing Swiss Made at 06 o’clock. The bi-metal creation with a yellow gold bezel and crown is an elegant creation – which rids the last doubts as to whether yellow gold and bi-metal are back.
This year’s Rolex playful graphics on the Perpetual 36 stood out absolutely everywhere as it was used on the dial as well as for for tote bags and other giveaways. A descendant of recent puzzle and balloon dials, it was impressive to see a graphic motif stand out in a tsunami of messages. But elegant? Perhaps not so much.
Last but not least, I am sure that it was not only my Instagram feed that for a while turned into a minty and refreshing pick-me up thanks to the prevalent Oyster Perpetual Day-Date with a light green aventurine dial.
And then there was of course Patek Philippe’s Nautilus reaching the mature age of 50. Genta’s creation is a true evergreen. And if you ask me, its status is changing. Even though it is still a hot commodity, it is making a return to being a horological hall-of-fame object I would proudly wear. This is a positive thing after a decade of serving as a hyped-up pacifier of football-pro divas or an asset sitting in investor’s portfolios.
Cartier had a somewhat lesser celebration with 10 years of Privé, which manifested itself in exceptional platinum pieces with burgundy accents. One of them was a Cartier Crash – another timepiece which also temporarily gave a bent impression to my Instagram feed. And by the way, did you hear about the Crash which fetched nearly $2million at a Sotheby’s sale in Hong Kong?
As for TAG Heuer, I am – despite the 23K price tag– I am in the applauding audience when it comes to the revolutionary TH-80 movement powering the new Evergraph. This watch will be one of the topics of our next Salon Worldtempus with TAG Heuer master watchmaker Carole Kasapi on May 5 at Chez Calvin in Geneva – sign up here: event@gmtpupublishing.com
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