Ultra-light watches emerged as the industry abandoned a long-held assumption: that a watch had to be heavy to convey beauty or durability. At the luxury end of the spectrum, gold and platinum naturally add substantial weight. For everyday and professional tool watches—from military and diving models to aviation timepieces—steel reigned supreme throughout the last century, bringing its own heft. Whether you were sitting in the boardroom of a major bank or serving as a machine gunner on an overseas military mission, a weighty watch was considered either a symbol of prestige or evidence of ruggedness.
A handful of manufacturers had already begun exploring lighter alternatives. Rado, with its ceramic cases—later brought into the spotlight by Chanel's J12 in the 2000s—is one example. Yet it was Richard Mille that fundamentally changed the conversation, pushing the limits further than anyone else by combining some of watchmaking's most delicate complications with timepieces that are both extraordinarily robust and remarkably lightweight.
Most Innovative: Richard Mille
The Les Breuleux-based brand has built its reputation on producing the world's lightest watches, repeatedly surpassing records it had already established. Its debut model, the RM 001 Tourbillon, launched in 2001, already weighed less than 100 grams, coming in at approximately 96 grams. By 2010, the Rafael Nadal model had reduced that figure to just 19 grams when it appeared on the courts of Roland-Garros. Those numbers have since been eclipsed. The movement inside the RM UP-01 Ferrari weighs only 2.82 grams—about the same as three paper banknotes. Richard Mille has also devoted considerable attention to reducing the weight of its straps, using technical textile materials that typically weigh around 10 grams, depending on the model and buckle configuration.
Most Roman: Bvlgari
Bvlgari has never made extreme lightness its primary objective. Even so, the Roman maison's multiple world records for ultra-thin watchmaking with the Octo Finissimo collection have also placed it among the creators of the lightest mechanical watches ever made. Equipped with a titanium case, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC weighs no more than 43 grams.
Most Modern: Ming
Ming Thein gave his first name to his watch brand: Ming. Never reluctant to embrace new technologies, he has incorporated innovative materials and manufacturing techniques—including 3D-grown components—to achieve several industry firsts while earning widespread recognition. The LW.01 is made from a magnesium-aluminum-zinc-manganese alloy and is offered in both manual-winding and automatic versions, weighing approximately 8.8 grams and 10.8 grams, respectively.
Most Promising: Behrens
Behrens has yet to become a household name, but its watches continue to push technical boundaries while remaining remarkably affordable compared with Swiss market standards. Its skeletonized double-retrograde 11G weighs exactly what its name suggests: just 11 grams. Once again, advanced composite materials are the key to achieving such a featherweight construction. Its styling may divide opinion, but the experience it offers is truly one of a kind.
Most Sporty: Hublot
When it comes to lightweight watchmaking, even a fraction of a gram can make the difference. For a while, Cvstos could have secured a place in this Top 5 with the second-generation Challenge Karen Khachanov, weighing 50 grams including the strap. In the end, however, another brand—and another tennis champion—claimed the title. Hublot's Big Bang Novak Djokovic weighs just 49.5 grams, strap included.
FAQ:
Q: What is the Geneva Watchmaking Guide?
A: The Geneva Watchmaking Guide is a book jointly published by the Geneva Tourism & Convention Foundation and the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, created to introduce visitors to Geneva's watchmaking heritage. Printed in 7,500 bilingual French-English copies, it consists of 175 hardcover pages and retails for CHF 30.
Q: Why is Geneva associated with watchmaking?
A: Geneva is associated with watchmaking because this expertise lies at the cultural, economic, and historical heart of the city, forming a unique blend of tradition, modernity, and industrial success unmatched anywhere else. That is why Geneva Tourism chose it as the subject of its second dedicated travel guide, following gastronomy.
Q: How is tourism in Geneva performing?
A: Tourism in Geneva has rebounded strongly since the COVID downturn, even surpassing its pre-2020 level, but it now appears to be reaching a plateau: overnight stays remained nearly stable between 2024 and 2025 (3.8 million and 3.9 million, respectively), placing the canton ninth out of ten in terms of growth.
Q: What is the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie?
A: The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) is a Geneva-based organization dedicated to promoting watchmaking and watchmaking culture. It co-published the Geneva Watchmaking Guide alongside the Geneva Tourism & Convention Foundation to showcase Geneva's watchmaking heritage to international visitors.
