The ‘who’ before the ‘what’

Fresh
La proximité avant le produit cover © GMT Magazine / Hermès
2 minutes read
Spanning the 20th and 21st centuries, Gen Z has very clear expectations of brands, with which it connects through experiences rather than product.

This is a group of remarkably mature young people whose message is not always fully understood despite its clarity.

Sociologists are geographers. They draw boundaries and mark out borders, regrouping populations within these in order to study them more closely based on their affinities, their political leanings, their purchasing power - or their age.

Such is definitely the case with Gen Z, defined by the birth years 1997 to 2012: that is, young people who are now between 14 and 29 years old.

One might challenge the arbitrary nature of these boundaries and the narrow 15-year period. Such an argument holds water, since a true "generation" - one separating parents from their children - spans 30 years in Europe, meaning twice that of Gen Z!

However, it turns out that the criteria for defining Gen Z are not biological, as it in fact consists of young people "who notably share the same cultural and technological reference points", explains Marie Le Scao of the Digital Luxury Group (DLG). In other words: similar values and common means of expressing them. These are the means that watch brands must master and the values they must embody if they are to appeal to Gen Z. »

Hermès H08 Squelette © Hermès

Three key words

“This appeal has two sides”, continues Marie Le Scao. “On one hand, there are brands with small-scale production and a captive customer base. Their annual output sells out without much difficulty.

They don’t really need to speak to Gen Z. On the other hand, there are those with high-volume production, or who already feel the need to win over their future customers. These are the ones expanding into Gen Z spaces today.”

Surprisingly, Gen Z’s expectations regarding watchmaking are remarkably well-defined and above all consistent. Three key words run through their discourse: authenticity (of the brand), sincerity (of its representations) and approachability (of its leaders and ambassadors).

Lorige BL-Evolution Hyperblack © Lorige

This golden triangle has its gateway. When you’re 18 or 20, crossing it is essentially a matter of funds, which are in short supply at that age. The most accessible brands are therefore the best positioned.

“The Swatch/Omega collaboration was the main gateway into the world of watchmaking for many Gen Zers”, notes Loan (born in 2002). Family background matters too. “Tradition, for 18-year-olds, still means jewelry for girls and watches for boys!” jokes Timothée (2003). A tradition that’s not so trivial, since it plants a seed that social media will then generously water.

Rolex Datejust 41 © Rolex

Instagram reigns

At the forefront – and enjoying near-monopoly status – is Instagram. The content that grabs attention is that which meets the three above- mentioned criteria (authenticity, sincerity and relatability). “I’ve seen an IWC video featuring a watchmaker who just had a front-facing camera and was assembling a movement, in immersive mode. No editing, no music, nothing – yet it was amazing and got millions of views,” enthuses Sidoine (2002).

Authenticity, relatability. Sincerity is that which is expected from the CEOs and brand ambassadors. Here, the modest size of independent brands works in their favor. “I’ve met the people at Serica, Baltic, and Beaubleu; these encounters changed everything. I was deeply moved by their personal stories”, Timothée continues. “It gives meaning to the product.” That says it all.

Perpetual calendar movement by IWC Schaffhausen © IWC Schaffhausen

“Representatives of Gen Z approach watchmaking with a sense of perspective, reason and remarkable maturity.”

Max Verstappen, driver for the Red Bull team partnered by TAG Heuer © TAG Heuer

The strength of the collective

If brands don’t reach out to them, Gen Z develops its own channels.

Such is the case with the Watch Club Business School, which has 6,000 followers on Instagram, 1,000 active members and represents 19 business schools. A powerful tool for students, a godsend for brands that see them as a pool of future high earners, executives… and potential collectors.

Most luxury maisons have reached out to them: Dior, Grand Seiko, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Trilobe and others. In total, 32 activations in 2025, primarily using Instagram and WhatsApp for content sharing. “TikTok still lacks clarity” notes one of the organizers. “The ByteDance issue in the U.S. hasn’t helped matters”, adds Marie Le Scao of DLG.

© Omega x Swatch Moonswatch

Audemars Piguet leads the way

When the CEO isn’t physically available, the brand ambassador or the given discipline speaks on their behalf. Gen Z cites numerous examples: TAG Heuer with F1, Ronaldo at Jacob & Co, Bulgari with its designer Fabrizio Buonamassa, Rolex with Alcaraz, etc. The in-store experience is also something Gen Z values, based on comments such as: “The Breitling vibe is very cool and surf-inspired.” At Hermès, people regularly praise “the artisanal, family-oriented feel, as well as the consistently offbeat communication.”

Audemars Piguet enters the world of padel © Audemars Piguet

Representatives of Gen Z (aka Zoomers) therefore approach watchmaking with a sense of perspective, reason and remarkable maturity. They are particularly drawn to certain brands of which Audemars Piguet takes the “best practice” prize. “Three years ago, we didn’t see much of them”, says Marie Le Scao of the Digital Luxury Group. “Today, they’re a textbook example. Between AP Lab, AP House, activations at Dubai Watch Week and Watches and Wonders, along with the Padel partnership, they’re now omnipresent, accessible and offbeat.” Sometimes over-hastily portrayed as hyper-connected, Gen Z also knows how to go out into the field to compare the digital experience with in-store reality. Duly noted.