As a noble metal that resists oxidation and corrosion while retaining relatively high value, gold is particularly prized in the form of alloys for the crafting of high-quality timepieces.
But while many watches showcase a golden hue, which ones are truly made with gold? And what type of gold is used in fine watchmaking?
To answer these questions, let us turn to five brands that have made clever use of gold and explore the full potential of this material.
We begin with the Albanian jewelry house Pirro and its creation in yellow gold. The Primordial Passion is a royal-looking watch, with an 18-carat yellow gold case, a bright red Murano glass dial, and 9–10 millimeter figures sculpted in 18K gold as well. If what comes to mind when you think of gold is a dazzling treasure, you will have the vision for the Primordial Passion. On this piece, gold embodies everything one could expect from it: brilliance, nobility, strength, and tradition.
But gold is not only golden and “sunny”; it can also resemble silver and present itself in a more discreet manner. This gold, known as white gold or grey gold, beautifully complements cooler tones and may be better suited to those who prefer silver-toned jewelry.
It is by no means less used in watchmaking. A fine example is the Chronomètre FB 2T by Ferdinand Berthoud, which combines an 18-carat grey gold case with a satin-finished blue dial. A perfect mix of classicism and modernity, grey gold lends a soft glow to the watch while perfectly highlighting the blue of the dial and the alligator strap.
Let us now look at a subtler shade of gold. It is neither yellow nor red—you’ve guessed it: it is rose gold. Often used to accompany warm-toned dials, or conversely to create contrast, rose gold is found just as much on women’s watches as on men’s. A watch that incorporates rose gold to perfection is the Nuit Fantastique Dune Or Rose by Trilobe in “Havana” tones. The 18-carat rose gold case and inner display ring perfectly frame the grainy Havana-brown dial, all mounted on a handsome chocolate alligator strap. A sleek, elegant watch suited equally to men’s and women’s wrists.
Next comes the exception that proves the rule—the only timepiece on this list without a round case: the Metropolitan PS 5N Red Gold by Cvstos. As its name indicates, the watch’s primary material is red gold. This shade of gold, with its more pronounced pink hue, is the least common in watchmaking, which lends creations containing it a distinctive originality. Originality is one of Cvstos’ hallmarks, always creating striking contrasts in its pieces. The Metropolitan PS 5N Red Gold is no exception: its vibrant red gold contrasts with the vertically guilloché black dial. Together, they form a bold timepiece, with a hefty 42-millimeter tonneau-shaped case and an integrated 5N red gold bracelet.
Gold is not limited to cases. It also brings a touch of luxury to dials, where it can be crafted into various finishes. Sunburst, guilloché, grainy, in subtle accents or across the entire surface, gold can be used in countless ways to create unique dials.
For instance, 24-carat yellow gold appears on the outer edge of the dial of the KS 06 Central Floating Tourbillon by Kross Studio, where its grainy finish gives the look of raw gold that contrasts with the rest of the watch in ultra-smooth grey titanium. A timepiece with a highly mechanical aesthetic, featuring a visible movement in the center that rises across multiple levels and even extends above the dial’s surface. The presence of the grainy gold makes the watch even more elegant and prestigious.
There are, of course, many other watches that incorporate gold, but these five brands illustrate how gold can be used creatively in fine watchmaking—in all its shades, textures, and possibilities.
