Letter from the Editor: Giant Season

When you talk about big four in watchmaking, you often talk about Rolex, Patek, Cartier, and AP. But if you talk about the big four in November, you often talk about Phillips, Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and Antiquorum – the four auction houses that shape the vintage market as we know it. And of course, that means to also talk about said brands, especially Rolex, Patek, and Cartier, since they are extremely important on the Auction market.

What I love about this week is that it is possible to have a look, as well as a touch and feel of some of the world’s finest vintage watches. And the fact that you can find watches for all wallets makes the week all the more exciting.

Let’s start from the river end of Geneva’s luxury hotel strip. At Mandarin Oriental you will find Sotheby’s Important Watches (live Sale November 8–9), which offers a broad spectrum. It starts from what I would call entry level of serious collecting: 1970s Vacheron Constantin in white gold and onyx dial references estimated around 10,000–15,000 CHF, and goes up to million-franc Patek perpetual calendars. An interesting part of the auction is also the Lion collection, which was amassed by a Singaporean collector. These 12 pieces are very heterogenous, with pieces from Rolex, Patek, AP, and Girard-Perregaux as well as indie royalties MB&F and De Bethune. The somewhat unlikely mix is exactly what makes it interesting, since it becomes a fresh testimony of organically exploring, learning, developing, and above all giving in to your passions.  

Christie’s Rare Watches and Watches for ELA is held at Four Seasons des Bergues (November 9). My favorites among the 218 lots? Those of you who know me, know that I am a sucker for pocket watches. So, that’s why I will start with the 1948 Patek Philippe 18k gold open-faced keyless lever world time watch (Estimate CHF 50,000 – CHF 100,000). I am also a sucker for simplicity combined with luxury, which is why I will mention the 1956 white gold Patek Philippe that was double branded with the retailer Serpico y Laino (Estimate CHF 80,000 – CHF 160,000). This 36-millimeter beauty is minimalist poetry combined with opulence, thanks to the diamond indexes. ELA seems to be the new kid on the block for charity auctions with unique pieces after the unfortunate disappearance of Only Watch. 

Hotel President Wilson will host Phillips The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV on November 7–8. It is hard to sum up 221 lots in a few snappy sentences, but I would say that it is rich with unusual pieces from the usual suspects. F.P.Journe Chronomètre à Resonance "Régence" in platinum (In Excess of CHF1,000,000), the mystery clock Cartier Portico No. 4 (Estimated at CHF1,800,000–3,200,000), and Patek Philippe’s unique "VILIP STERKK" Ref. 3998 in 18k yellow gold, (estimated CHF80,000–160,000) are three of many extremely interesting timepieces to be found here.

Antiquorum’s Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces is held at its Rue du Mont Blanc showroom (Nov 7–8). Having 603 lots is proof that the classical house that was founded in 1974 has some limbing back towards its former glory, but it also means that budding collectors can find needles in the haystack. Such as the fine 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pocket watch from 1895. White enamel dial and blued hands inside a small (27mm) hunting case. With an estimate at CHF 1,500 - 2,500 it is probably one of the most affordable Patek’s out there at the moment. Another one that I am checking out at today’s press breakfast is the 18K yellow gold Rolex Bubbleback Ref 3372 (estimate CHF 1,500 - 2,500) This particular piece was made in the middle of the model’s production time from circa 1930 to 1950.