WORLDTEMPUS - 8 March 2012
Roberta Naas
New automatic Caliber H1837 is the first ever in-house Hermès movement. © Paul Le Preux / Hermès
The excitement of Baselworld 2012 brings with it a host of announcements and unveilings that leave their mark. Such is the case with Hermès' release of its first “in-house” Caliber H1837 - which is named for the year the brand launched. This is a very fitting year for such a momentous launch as Hermès proudly celebrates 100 years of watchmaking.
To celebrate these two anniversaries in style, Hermès not only unveils its new caliber, but also releases it within a new Dressage line of timepieces that richly blends its past with its expertise in watchmaking.
“After 100 years of Hermès being involved in watchmaking, we are taking a big step this year with the first Hermès Manufacture in-house caliber,” says Luc Perramond, CEO of Hermès.
The movement, which was five years in the development process, was created in conjunction with Vaucher Manufacture in Fleurier, a movement maker of which Hermès is a 25 percent owner (with Sandoz Foundation owning the rest).
The new 193-part automatic Caliber H1837 offers 50 hours of power reserve thanks to twin spring barrels, which also equip it with the power it needs to add on small complications in the future. The variations currently on offer include a Small Seconds model (with a subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o'clock) and a simple calendar version with date at 6 o'clock. The movement is ensconced in the Hermès Dressage line, which is dedicated to Hermès' rich saddler and leather goods heritage. Dressage was first created by Henri d'Origny and was modernized in 2003. The tonneau-shaped case features an inner round dial for vintage appeal, a curved ergonomic case, curved, extended lugs and a dial with original Arabic numerals at 9, 12 and 3, inspired by the early days of Hermès' watchmaking.
The new series is offered in either stainless steel or in a limited edition 18-karat rose gold version. Currently, ten Dressage models make their debut with a variety of dial colorations and strap offerings. The special limited-edition piece in 18-karat rose gold features an alluring matte graphite dial and is restricted to 175 pieces (for the 175th anniversary). The line will retail starting from $10,600.
Also to celebrate its 100 years of watchmaking, Hermès has opened a superb historical museum in its Paris flagship store exhibiting saddlery, timepieces, and travel-related objects from around the world as collected by Emile Hermès, grandson of the founder.
