Cartier Roadster: The Return of a Road Warrior

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© Cartier
1 minute read
Cartier went well and truly ‘off-piste’ during the early years of this century, throwing itself into avant garde watch making with concept pieces such as the the idOne and idTwo, and even creating its first in-house movement, the Calibre de Cartier.

It also introduced some fresh designs to offer alongside its long-standing classics, notably the pebble-smooth Ballon Bleu, the Calibre de Cartier Diver and – perhaps the most surprising of all – the loud and chunky Roadster.

Launched in 2002, the Roadster was very much of its era with an imposing, 43mm by 38mm curved case (or a whopping 49mm by 42mm  for the XL version) and an automotive aesthetic  said to have been partly inspired by the Porsche 356 of the 1950s.

Car-like touches included a dial redolent of a speedometer, a prominent crown set into a base reminiscent of the 356’s bulging hub caps and a conical date magnifier that (once it was pointed out) looked for all the world like a headlamp lens

To say the Roadster was a rip-roaring success might not be accurate – hence its discreet removal from the Cartier line-up a decade after it first appeared.

Roadster watch, steel © Cartier

A Quiet Comeback on the Pre-Owned Market

But since then interest in pre-owned versions of the undeniably unique Roadster has quietly been building among fans of ‘modern vintage’ watches who both appreciate something different and  the fact that a steel Roadster is currently among  the most affordable ways into Cartier ownership.

We say ‘currently ‘ because there’s a very good chance that some of those original Roadsters that have been sitting unloved on the stock lists of pre-owned watch retailers may be set for their moment in the sun – because at this week’s Watches & Wonders, Cartier surprised us all by bringing the Roadster roaring back.

The ‘king of jewellers and jeweller of kings’ claims to have employed more than 100 artisans to achieve its goal of tweaking the original Roadster’s design to create a less brash, more subtle watch that’s better suited to today’s taste.

Roadster watch, steel © Cartier

Refined, Reimagined and Ready for Today

Surprisingly, the case of the ‘large’ model has actually been increased in length by four millimetres (to  47mm) but retains the original’s 38mm width, while the new ‘small’ Roadster measures a more manageable 42.5mm by 34.9mm – a size we reckon will appeal even more to men than to the women it might be  aimed at.

Each size is available in three metals – steel, gold and steel and gold – with the larger models using the 1857MC self-winding movement and the smaller ones the 1899MC.

Cases have been smoothed and softened, the four top-loading screws of the old model have been replaced with a type of refined rivet, and particular attention has been paid to the dials, with each model retaining the distinctive circular, striated pattern which has always defined the Roadster aesthetic.

Roadster watch, steel © Cartier

This time, however, greater attention has been paid to the detail, with the use of a stamping tool to create an ‘applique’ effect, varnished indexes and a choice of blue or anthracite-coloured hands .

Bracelets have also been refined through a shorter link design , with each model being offered with an additional alligator skin strap.

Initially, only white dials are available on the majority of models – but our pick of the bunch is the ‘large’ Roadster in steel  featuring a dark blue dial, steel bracelet and an additional blue rubber strap.

It should be just the job when you’re enjoying some top-down fun….

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