Since 2020, it is the members of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Academy who put forward the watches of their choice to the GPHG Foundation each spring and vote on them in summer. As of 2023, the Academy comprises over 800 members representing the entire watchmaking community. They awarded scores from 1 to 6 to their six favorite candidates in each of the 15 categories that sometimes included several dozen timepieces each. With the exception of the Sports category, which returned to replace the Diving Watch category, all categories were the same as in 2022. According to the Foundation, over 90% of members voted to select the nominated models. They will cast another ballot before the awards ceremony on 9 November to choose the winners, alongside a 30-member jury that will have the opportunity to physically handle all the competing timepieces.
Audemars Piguet in pole position
The winner of the 2019 “Aiguille d'Or” Grand Prix (for its Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin) clearly has a head start, with five watches nominated in the following heavyweight categories: Men’s, Men’s Complication, Mechanical Exception, Chronograph and Iconic (having already won the latter prize in 2021). Will we see Audemars Piguet's new CEO take to the stage for the first time? For its part, Piaget is also placing five watches (Ladies’, Men’s Complication, Calendar and Astronomy, Jewellery, Artistic Crafts).
A quartet of four nominees
Regularly shortlisted in the GPHG for many years, four brands have seen four of their candidates nominated by the Academy this year. Chopard (winner of the 2017 “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix for its L.U.C Full Strike) appears in categories as diverse as Ladies’ Complication, Iconic, Sport and Jewellery.
The brand will be competing against Van Cleef & Arpels, which last year won the Innovation Prize (Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier watch) as well as the Mechanical Clock Prize, ahead of being nominated this year in the Ladies', Jewellery, Artistic Crafts and Mechanical Clock categories.
It is joined by another 2022 winner (Ladies' Watch Prize for its Tonda PF Automatic), Parmigiani Fleurier, now nominated in the Men's, Men’s Complication, Tourbillon as well as Calendar and Astronomy categories.
Finally, IWC appears this year in the Ladies’ Complication, Iconic, Calendar and Astronomy along with the Sports categories. In any case, the Schaffhausen-based brand wins the prize for perseverance, having participated in the GPHG for many years with watches nominated in several categories, although without yet snagging an award.
A very promising trio
This particular trio includes three brands that have already won the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix and are now seeing three of their watches nominated for this year’s edition: Bovet (2018), Bulgari (2021) and TAG Heuer (2012). Bovet is playing the complication card, with three models nominated in the Men’s Complication, Tourbillon as well as Calendar and Astronomy categories (the latter looking set to spark strong competition with Parmigiani!). The range of products and the strength of the Bulgari brand are once more on display in fields as varied as Tourbillon, Jewellery and “Petite Aiguille”. Last year, Bulgari came out on top with its Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary (Audacity Prize) and its Serpenti Misteriosi Haute Joaillerie (Jewellery Watch Prize). Last but not least, TAG Heuer has managed to place watches among the nominees for the Chronograph, Sports and Iconic categories (having won the latter in 2022 with the Monaco Gulf).
May the best candidates win! Stay tuned for the official catalogue which will be available next week.
