It might have felt more like Formula 1 and football than any other sport in the halls of Watches and Wonders, but the tone was set from day one: the 2025 edition was bursting with energy. It brought together strong egos and brands of all sizes, was flawlessly organized, and sparked excitement with spectacular booths and a wildly diverse range of creations—both from the 60 exhibitors and from a wider sense of shared horological spirit.
Numbers First, Words Later
True, there was one sour note in the otherwise harmonious timekeeping symphony: the shocking announcement of a 31% U.S. customs duty targeting Swiss imports. But even that couldn’t derail the event’s momentum. This year, organizers took a gamble by opening the fair to the public for an extra day—Monday—which paid off with a 21% increase in public ticket sales (23,000 tickets in total). Every visitor category saw growth: 6,000 retailers (+5%) and 1,600 journalists (+7%), adding up to a record 55,000 visitors (+12%). A milestone for Watches and Wonders, even if it still pales in comparison to Baselworld’s 2014 peak of 150,000 before its ultimate decline. Also worth noting: the hashtag #watchesandwonders2025 reached over 700 million impressions by the event’s close, a 17% jump.
Watches and Wonders’ undeniable success also benefited its more modest neighbor, Time to Watches, which ran concurrently and added a refreshing dose of diversity to the Geneva cocktail. Hosted at Villa Sarasin, the show welcomed 77 exhibitors (some micro in size) and 9,500 visitors—a 35% increase. Another key ingredient to the 2025 vintage was Thursday’s "In the City" evening, offering the public a glass-in-hand, boutique-to-boutique experience. The walk-through combined education with entertainment across downtown Geneva.
As Cyrille Vigneron, President of the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation, put it: “Watches and Wonders is asserting itself not only as an essential professional meeting point, but also as a platform for watch brands to express themselves. It allows each Maison to visually showcase its world, present and wear exceptional creations, and share a common passion. It’s a medium, a message, and a mediator.” Could this be enough to entice notable absentees like Breitling? When contacted, CEO Georges Kern didn’t rule it out—though not before spring 2027. He indicated he would want to bring along his other two brands, Universal Genève and Gallet, "if all conditions are right."
Trends and Unmissable Brands
Despite a sluggish global economy since last year, the creative force of watchmaking was on full display—not only in the variety of players, but in the strength and boldness of the watches themselves. Clear trends were elusive, but some patterns emerged: smaller case sizes, open-worked dials (skeletonization), and the rise of colorful stones. Among major complications, the perpetual calendar reigned supreme.
So how do you stand out in such a crowd? Let’s give credit where it’s due. The crowned giant, Rolex, stood out not only with its stately white-and-green booth but also with a collection that took seven years of R&D and led to 41 patents: the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller. With an integrated bracelet and a brand-new high-frequency movement, it’s a game changer.
Right across from them, Patek Philippe arguably made the best use of the event’s dual format—at both Palexpo and the city edition. A holy grail for collectors worldwide, Patek unveiled around 15 new models, including the jaw-dropping Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308, packing 799 components into a 42mm case. Also noteworthy: over 80 Rare Handcrafts pieces were displayed in the brand’s Rue du Rhône salons until April 26.
Another high-watchmaking heavyweight, Vacheron Constantin, earned serious bragging rights with its Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grande Complication, featuring an astounding 41 complications—making it the most complicated wristwatch in the industry. What better way to celebrate the 270th anniversary of the world’s oldest watchmaker in continuous operation?
Zenith, too, marked a milestone—160 years of uninterrupted watchmaking in the same building. It launched a new collection and revived a legendary movement: the G.F.J., named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot, powered by the iconic caliber 135 given a new lease on life.
Also under the LVMH umbrella, Bulgari made its Watches and Wonders debut with flair, setting its 10th world record for thinness via the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon (1.85mm). The brand also announced that CEO Jean-Christophe Babin would now head LVMH’s entire watch division. Under his leadership, TAG Heuer (CEO Antoine Pin) leaned into its Formula 1 revival, displaying two legendary F1 cars at the booth entrance. Meanwhile, Hublot brought the party, celebrating 20 years of the Big Bang with the week’s only true celebrity-packed soirée, hosted by CEO Julien Tornare at Geneva’s Arena, welcoming over 700 guests.
Also highly anticipated: the return of Jaeger-LeCoultre's CEO, a former head of the Richemont group and of the brand itself. He gave his first interviews (starting with GMT and WorldTempus) and reaffirmed the Grande Maison du Sentier’s mastery of horology and craftsmanship through a stunning array of Reversos—diverse, dazzling, and technically impeccable. At the top of Richemont’s pyramid, Cartier continued wooing collectors with the celebrated comeback of the Tank à Guichet, universally praised by attendees and media alike.
Among the independents, color and complications were the name of the game. Chanel marked the 25th anniversary of its J12 with a striking blue ceramic version. Parmigiani impressed with soft pastel tones and richly functional variations across its Tonda and Torric lines, especially the almost obsessively pure perpetual calendar. Always full of surprises, H. Moser & Cie. stole the show with the ornamental stones of its joyful yet complex Pop collection.
Let’s hope this wave of passion and determination helps the watch industry navigate the global headwinds it faces—and that enthusiasts continue to indulge in these remarkable expressions of creativity and ingenuity.
So how did brand leaders experience this horological whirlwind—and what are their personal takeaways? Find out in our exclusive follow-up article coming Monday.
