When Louis Vuitton took over the Fabrique du Temps, the Parisian brand thereby acquired one of the leading lights in the production of highly complicated Swiss watch movements. But apart from tourbillons, what could such a luxury giant aim to achieve with such a finely tuned instrument at its disposal? Any sceptics who may have voiced such opinions were clearly unaware of the true ambitions of the brand with the iconic monogram. Under the auspices of the Vice-President of its Watches and Jewellery division, Hamdi Chatti, it aims to occupy a broad watchmaking territory ranging from highly ornamental to extremely complex, and from jewellery through lifestyle watches to Haute Horlogerie creations.
Delicacy
On the ornamental side, a new Tambour Bijoux Secret series features a dainty case and precious dials crafted from malachite, lapis lazuli and turquoise. Also in a feminine spirit, although with more technical ambitions, the new Tambour Monogram is Louis Vuitton’s major new vehicle in appealing to women. The drum-shaped case has been turned upside down with the wider side uppermost, and also graced with precious dials. The movements are mechanical on the larger models, a choice that appears entirely natural. The most sophisticated specimen in the range is a resolutely feminine tourbillon model with a gemset micro-rotor. The brand is clearly determined to usher ladies into the world of mechanical and even complicated horology.
Power
On the masculine side, the Tambour collection welcomes a new sports model: the eminently virile and powerful Tambour eVolution. Issued in chronograph and GMT versions, it features a new material: its bezel is made of MMC, an aluminium composite used for the pistons of Formula 1 racing cars. The case is in steel, as is the new articulated bracelet, as well as the distinctive V-shaped element flanking the crown. But the real surprise comes from the nautical world. Louis Vuitton is strongly linked to the world of sailing as an official sponsor of the America’s Cup. A year after an all-new regatta chronograph, the Spin Time Regatta of which a pink gold version is being launched in 2013, Vuitton now introduces a second innovation intended for timekeeping at sea: the Twin Chrono.
Innovation
The concept is entirely new and slightly crazy. The monopusher chronograph starts two simultaneous timing operations of two competing boats. A second press stops the first counter and starts a third. A third press stops everything to provide a reading of the time for the second boat and the time difference between the two competitors on the 12 o’clock subdial; and a last press resets the three subdials to zero. It is not a split-second chronograph, nor an integrated chronograph, but something entirely different, since the movement is divided into four parts. Each chronograph subset has its own barrel and its balance-wheel and is thus entirely independent. They start and stop thanks to a four-tier column-wheel unique in its kind, which centralises and distributes the orders received via the controls. The fourth part is dedicated to driving the time display. The entire mechanism is housed within an elegant white gold case framing a truly beautiful blue grand feu enamel dial. The object is completely unconventional and iconoclastic. Louis Vuitton distributes its products exclusively through its own boutiques, a luxurious universe not always suited to purveying Fine Watchmaking. How will such a distinctive timepiece find an audience among the assorted trunks, handbags and shoes bearing the famous LV logo?
