What are your favorite features of this new Type XX?
There are several, because it is actually a double new release that required four years of development, especially for its self-winding chronograph movement. We took up the challenge of using a common base caliber for two models – the military (Type 20) and the civilian (Type XX) – notably featuring different nomenclatures to adapt the plates and gear trains corresponding to the two- and three-counter versions, with 30 or 15 units for the minute counter.
At the same time, this caliber has been the subject of several patent applications aimed at improving the flyback function, which we have engraved on the back. It is equipped with a cross-through balance bridge offering greater sturdiness and provides its wearer with a comfortable 60h power reserve, all while beating at a 5 Hz frequency. Not only does it perform well, but I also find it aesthetically pleasing, with understated decorations conveying its sportiness and contemporary style. Its rotor evoking an airplane is an original nod to the spirit of the collection. Finally, we have respected the spirit of the first Type XX, except for the addition of the date and the Breguet logo on the dial. I personally have a soft spot for the military version, which pays strongest tribute to the original model and its history.
What are your expectations for this great comeback?
First of all, I am very happy that Breguet can reconnect with its DNA and that our clients are expressing such huge enthusiasm! Since I took over the brand in 2021, I have been meeting with collectors and retailers across all countries asking me to relaunch this collection. They will be all the more pleased that our new Type XX are distinguished by an excellent quality-price ratio (CHF 17,500). And we intend to satisfy them, notably in a second phase featuring variations in terms of colors and materials, and even sizes to keep things varied while maintaining a strong pace with this collection.
Why do you think pilot’s watches remain a dream?
Chronographs are generally very popular, and the aesthetics of sports watches are very appealing to men, as well as quite obviously to women. The fact that Breguet enjoys genuine legitimacy in the field of aviation takes things into a different dimension. It’s really important that pilots entrusted their lives to this watch. Because it was military equipment, they had to part with it after their missions, so there is also a poignancy to it. There is also the touching story of the great female aviator Jaqueline Auriol, a test pilot and world figure in women’s aviation, who was given one of the first Type XXs by aircraft manufacturer Louis Breguet. Not to mention many other legendary clients.
Are Breguet’s sports watches attracting a new clientele today?
This is indeed the case with the Marine collection, for which demand has far outstripped supply since its launch in 2018, and still does so today in certain markets, such as Japan. This applies not only to the titanium models, but also gold. With the Type XX being more affordable, we are hoping for a surge. In some countries such as Korea, Breguet has high expectations among young people. A vintage spirit combined with the interchangeability of the straps significantly modifies the personality of this watch. We are sure that this meets the expectations of a younger audience. This timepiece features impressive scope, while naturally ensuring respect for its heritage.
The Type 20 was born in the 1950s, what do you see as the main milestones over the past 70 years?
Breguet was known for making advanced instruments for aviation, and I would say the first milestone came with the French armed forces’ bid for tender won by Breguet (among others) and which led to the 1954 order of 1,100 “Type 20 military” watches, which had been approved the previous year by the technical services of the Aéronautique navale. This was followed by a great period of creativity for this collection through to the 1990s. In my opinion, the second milestone was set by the brand in 2010 with the Type XX equipped with a caliber beating at a frequency of 10 Hz, probably too far ahead of its time given its modest success. Naturally, the third milestone comes with the Type 20 and the Type XX that we have just unveiled – and others will follow in their wake!
