To celebrate two decades of existence, Minase has made a special edition of its Seven Windows collection, highlighting Japanese artisanal skills through its dial that is created with electroforming. The dial of the “Yukihira Black Gradation Dial” has undergone an intricate process of adorning its copper base with a subtle Yukihira pattern reminiscent of a hammered snowflake. The final steps include finishing the dial with a deep black gradation that also shows purple tones, dependent on the angle of light.
The dial is held in place with a cage-like ring and indexes, giving Minase its unique floating case-in-case-design. Several details, including the signature drill marks on the dial ring, are polished to a highly reflective surface with the Sallaz technique. This technique, which is also called Zaratsu, is different from mirror or black polishing as we know it from Switzerland or Germany. It was, however, developed in Switzerland in the 1970s – by request of a Japanese brand. Special machines that can hardly be found in Switzerland anymore comprise of big grinding wheels covered with substrate, allowing the artisans to achieve high reflection on forged metal parts. The polishing is extremely flat and angular with sharp angles; a process similar to how you cut and polish diamonds. There is, to my knowledge, no other brand that applies Sallaz polishing to as many surfaces as Minase, where you can find it on the indexes, the crown, several case elements, as well as the bracelet.
Minase, based in the Akita province, is an offspring of a precision-cutting tool supplier called Kyowa, which was founded in 1963 by the father of Minase CEO Tsuyoshi Suzuki. Tsuyoshi Suzuki lists Sallaz, case-in-case-designs, and the unique Minase Original Rebuilt Equation (MORE), a design system facilitating disassembly of most case and bracelet components for after-service work, as the most distinguishing features of a Minase watch.
Seven Windows is arguably the most recognisable case in case design from Minase. The outer square case with rounded edges features seven sapphire glass windows, which together offer a 360° view of the dial and the ETA movement with a customised rotor. The surfaces of the movement with lubrication-free bearings have gone through high-end hand-finishing techniques including perlage, blued screws, and bridges with diamond-polished bevels.
Many Japanese watches remain a local affair, but in 2017 Minase took its first step towards international recognition, together with Managing Partner Sven Erik Henriksen’s company H-Development, based in Biel/Bienne. It all started in the most Swiss way possible: Mr. Suzuki was a friend of a friend, and thus invited to a fondue. Thanks to Mr. Henriksen, Mr. Suzuki’s dream of the brand being present in a store in Switzerland could be realised, and this was the start of an international commercialisation. Now, the numbers do the talking: in the eight years since, Minase has increased its production by more than 50%, resulting in an output of 500-600 watches per year.
The pair will continue their successful modus operandi: While Mr. Suzuki and his team of artisans keep developing the handmade watches in Japan, Mr. Henriksen brings the watches to the world via fairs like Worn & Wound, SIAR Mexico, and Toronto Timepiece. “With such a unique construction and the exquisite finishes that you have on a Minase, you must see the watch physically. And for us it is equally important to meet and get to know the collectors in person,” explained Mr. Henriksen.
The Minase Yukihira Black Gradation Dial is a limited edition of 77 pieces – 7 is a lucky number in Japan. All watches ordered before the end of September will be delivered in a leather watch box with a silver bracelet. “Minase continues to prove that small-scale Japanese craftsmanship can resonate powerfully on the global stage. Now we are 20 years strong, and we are just getting started,” concluded Mr. Henriksen.
