Some brands revel in giving their collections six-digit names that only experts can decipher. It’s a strategy that doesn’t exactly help make fine watchmaking more accessible. At Bvlgari, it’s the opposite. The watch with eight sides? That’s the Octo. The ultra-thin version? Octo Finissimo. A watch made of aluminum? Bvlgari Aluminium. In bronze? Bvlgari Bronzo.
A Pioneer
Over 25 years ago, Bvlgari launched the Bvlgari Aluminium—the first watch made of aluminum with a rubber bezel. Today, in the era of material innovation (carbon, tungsten, sapphire, and other high-tech ceramics), that combination might seem commonplace. But in 1998, in a post-quartz watch market that was both recovering and conservative, it was a bold move. Bvlgari was already breaking the rules—with Italian flair: creative and unexpected, joyful yet always elegant. A stylish kick from the Boot to a Switzerland that wasn’t quite ready for it.
The Bronze Age
In 2020, the Bvlgari Aluminium was reintroduced as part of the regular collection. Today, Bvlgari continues along its creative path. Farewell aluminum, hello bronze. The new addition is simply named Bvlgari Bronzo.
Bvlgari offers both a chronograph and a GMT version, sharing the same design: a sandblasted bronze case, black rubber bezel, and a segmented bracelet combining both materials. The only difference is the size: 41 mm for the chronograph, 40 mm for the GMT. Notably, the bronze isn’t permanently stabilized—meaning each watch will age differently depending on how it's worn, giving each piece a unique patina over time.
Variations on a Theme
Aesthetically, the Bvlgari Aluminium and Bvlgari Bronzo are very similar, staying true to the brand’s signature design language. Similar... but not identical. The manufacture has made a few subtle updates. On the chronograph, the inner bezel scale is no longer marked in seconds but in fifths of a second (each second divided into five segments). The reason? It’s no longer functioning as a classic chronograph, but rather as a tachymeter (base 400 mph). This piece clearly favors asphalt over clay. Another change: the seconds hand no longer features a red tip, but a white one—matching the rest of the typography. Finally, the word “Aluminium” has disappeared from the dial (understandably), but it hasn’t been replaced with “Bronzo” either.
As for the GMT model, most of the changes are chromatic. The day/night contrast on the 24-hour scale is more discreet than the red & black or red & blue combinations seen in previous editions. For the Bronzo, Bvlgari chose subtle shades of grey. Both the seconds and GMT hands abandon the usual red accents in favor of white. A notable and welcome detail: for the first time, the hands are tinted bronze—marking a first for this reference.
In terms of movement, both models are automatic. The GMT offers a generous power reserve of over two days (50 hours), while the chronograph delivers a respectable 42 hours.
