Eberhard & Co. is widely recognized for collections such as Contodat, Tazio Nuvolari, Chrono 4, and Extra-fort. The brand is closely tied to mechanical chronographs, automotive heritage, and its longstanding relationship with the Frecce Tricolori, the aerobatic squadron of the Italian Air Force. Far less familiar to many is Gilda, the women’s collection introduced in the late 2000s, which is now set to assume a far more visible position within the La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture’s portfolio.
Named Peacock, the latest creation confidently embraces its decorative identity while showcasing a high level of technical craftsmanship.
A Feminine Vision That Remains True to the Brand’s Identity
For Eberhard & Co., Gilda is far from a simple detour into women’s watchmaking. CEO Barbara Monti is eager to underline this point: “From the very beginning, the history of Eberhard & Co. has included numerous women’s collections distinguished by creativity and originality, always existing alongside our core focus on men’s watchmaking.”
Still, the arrival of Gilda represented an important milestone, giving this segment a more distinctive and coherent identity. “I do not consider it merely a watch collection, but rather a true celebration of the complexity of women,” explains the CEO.
For a brand so deeply rooted in masculine and sporty aesthetics, the challenge was to create a feminine proposition without resorting to the traditional clichés of the “ladies’ watch”, long perceived by the industry as little more than a jewel-like accessory. Ms. Monti addresses the subject directly: “We have moved beyond the era where ‘smaller is always better’. Today, women’s watches are no longer miniature jewels or scaled-down versions of men’s models, but creations with their own design language and strong personality.”
The Ellipse as a Defining Element
At the heart of Gilda lies a single geometric concept: the ellipse. The case, the patented domed sapphire crystal, the dial, and even the hands all follow this flowing curve, which has become the collection’s defining visual signature. More than a stylistic choice, it was conceived as a true statement of intent.
“In women’s watchmaking, designs often fluctuate between the rigidity of the circle and the sharpness of the rectangle; we chose the ellipse because it embodies the perfect balance between structure and emotion,” says Ms. Monti. The result is a fluid shape that naturally follows the movement of the wrist and creates what she describes as “an invisible but tangible form of luxury”.
The new Peacock edition retains these defining proportions: a polished steel case measuring 32.10mm x 38mm, with a thickness of 7.60mm. The crown features the maison’s embossed “E” shield emblem, while the caseback is decorated with floral engraving and the model name highlighted in red.
Eight Hours of Laser Engraving for a Feather-Like Dial
The true focal point of this new release is undoubtedly the dial. Drawing inspiration from peacock feathers and their iridescent “eyes”, it combines multiple decorative techniques to create what is essentially a miniature piece of decorative art.
The process begins with a gradient blue base, which is already technically challenging to achieve on an elliptical dial, before continuing with laser engraving requiring nearly eight hours of work for every piece. “Spending close to eight hours engraving each dial reflects our pursuit of uncompromising tri-dimensionality,” explains Ms. Monti, noting that such complexity naturally limits production capacity.
The technical sophistication lies primarily in the layering of colors. Shades of turquoise, blue, silver, and white are successively applied to recreate the magnetic depth and iridescence characteristic of peacock plumage. The final and most delicate stage involves shaping the domed surface while ensuring the motif remains perfectly legible from every angle. Dauphine hands and a white Arabic numeral “12” complete the dial while preserving its visual harmony.
Quartz as a Design-Driven Decision
One aspect certain to attract attention among purists is the choice of a quartz movement for the Gilda Peacock. Yet this decision is entirely deliberate and openly embraced by the manufacture.
“In a maison where 98% of the collection is mechanical, quartz remains a very specific and conscious exception,” says Barbara Monti. “For Gilda, this solution allowed us to prioritize purity of form: quartz enables us to maintain a slimness that would be difficult to achieve with a mechanical movement.”
This approach aligns closely with the philosophy of the collection, where technical refinement is expressed through the external architecture (the curved case, domed sapphire crystal, and seamless bracelet integration) rather than through a movement that would compromise the overall silhouette.
The blue alligator strap with silver lurex stitching extends the tones of the dial and fastens with an elliptical steel buckle adorned with the shield emblem.
Gilda, a Quiet but Essential Pillar of the Maison
The question naturally arises as to what role Gilda now plays within a brand still largely defined by its masculine icons. Ms. Monti’s response is unequivocal: “Gilda is not merely an ambition; it is already a fundamental pillar of our maison. The collection has developed a sufficiently strong identity to stand naturally alongside our masculine icons, proving that the spirit of Eberhard & Co. is not defined by gender, but by the strength of its design and the quality of its craftsmanship.”
That philosophy appears fully embodied in the new Peacock edition: a watch that seduces through aesthetics, impresses through technical virtuosity, and expresses a vision of femininity that embraces both complexity and individuality.
“Wearing the Peacock dial means embracing the richness of one’s many facets, displaying on the wrist a symbol of pride and an elegance bold enough to be profound, mysterious, and never ordinary,” concludes Ms. Monti.
