Amid the surge of independent brands, Patek Philippe is pursuing its distinct identity. The venerable manufacture is adapting and multiplying non-round cases, with two new collections in two years: the Cubitus on 17 October 2024, followed by the Gondolo Ladies First on 1 October 2026. The first is masculine and square, the second feminine and cushion-shaped. But that is where the comparison ends: the first was a pure creation, while the second is an extension of existing models.
Mexican Roots
It was as part of the new “Watch Art” Grand Exhibition held in Milan from 2 to 18 October that Patek Philippe unveiled the Gondolo Ladies First. Historically, the manufacture refers to any shaped watch as a “Gondolo”. The name comes from the brand’s Mexican retailer, Gondolo & Labouriau, which enjoyed major success at the beginning of the 20th century. The manufacture therefore dedicated exclusive pieces to it in the most daring shapes (rectangular, tonneau, square, cushion-shaped), and the name remained.
Its influence proved constant and indelible, with the Gondolo of the 1990s notably inspiring the iconoclastic Twenty~4. The new Gondolo Ladies First takes up this epithet, since it is cushion-shaped. It is this extension of the range that Patek Philippe unveiled in Milan, comprising three partially-set versions and three others that are fully set. The main difference between the two models that are already in the collection concerns the straps (now in leather, previously in pearls).
Supporting the growth of the women’s market
“In volume, 10% of our sales are Twenty~4. Overall, we are currently at 36% of watches sold to women, and I think we can go further,” explained Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe, to nearly a hundred journalists gathered in Milan for the occasion. The Gondolo Ladies First therefore has the mission of diversifying the offering for women. The idea is to give them other choices besides the iconic Twenty~4, the set Aquanaut Luce, the sporty Nautilus or the classic Calatrava with its round case.
Three essential characteristics
The manufacture therefore chose to continue with the format already in the collection of the two Gondolo Haute Joaillerie models, with a return to the Art Deco spirit sporting a 31 x 34.88mm cushion-shaped case. It has three particular features. The first: it is always set. There is no reference made only in gold, without diamonds.
The second: the first level of setting is not on the case or on the bezel but, between the two. Patek Philippe has set 108 diamonds on the inner bezel, more or less a wide inclined flange, to encircle the dial while leaving the cushion geometry of the case free.
Finally, the third particularity: the four lugs are articulated and semi-open. Concretely, their outer edge does not touch the case. Patek Philippe demonstrates its case-making craftsmanship here with complex architecture involving attached, mobile lugs, a true finishing complexity, and rare assembly precision. A manifesto of know-how that purists will appreciate.
Six new models
Two ranges are offered, with three variations each. The first range is only partially set, on a white gold, rose gold, or combination case, with a denim blue, brown, or opaline dial. The second range is 100% set (case, dial, bezel, lugs), with the same three golds (white, rose, or the two combined). The shades here are blue, green, or purple. These six models join two Haute Joaillerie models combining pearls and diamonds, which have been part of the collection since 2016.
Powered by the E15 quartz movement, 20% of its components are electronic; the remaining 80% are produced in the same way as mechanical calibers. The Gondolo Ladies First collection will be the first to appear alongside the new “I AM. I WEAR” campaign, developed by the Leagas Delaney agency in London.
FAQ
What is Patek Philippe's Gondolo Ladies First collection?
Gondolo Ladies First is a 100% women's range extension unveiled in Milan on October 1, 2026, adding six new quartz references in a cushion-shaped case alongside the two Gondolo Haute Joaillerie models in the collection since 2016.
Where does the name "Gondolo" come from at Patek Philippe?
Patek Philippe historically calls any shaped watch "Gondolo," a name from its Mexican retailer Gondolo & Labouriau, which enjoyed major success in the early 20th century with exclusive, daringly shaped pieces.
What are the case features of the Gondolo Ladies First?
The 31 x 34.88mm cushion-shaped case is always diamond-set, with 108 diamonds placed on the inner bezel rather than the case or outer bezel, and four articulated, semi-open lugs that don't touch the case.
What movement powers the Gondolo Ladies First?
The collection runs on the E15 quartz movement, with 20% electronic components, while the remaining 80% are produced using the same methods as mechanical calibres.
