It was 25 years ago. In watchmaking, with maisons boasting two centuries of history, this would be insignificant. However, in fashion, staying in a collection for 25 years is a feat. But is the Chanel J12, born in 2000, still a fashion accessory watch? An extension on the wrist of Chanel's Haute Couture universe? The question arises, as the piece increasingly evolves towards a high-end watchmaking register.
In this, the work undertaken by Arnaud Chastaingt, director of Chanel's watchmaking design studio, is interesting. The man is gradually refining his J12. With small touches, from a fashion universe conceived in 2000, he is making it a timepiece with an assumed watchmaking status. The two latest J12 33 mm models launched at the last Watches and Wonders show testify to this.
Siamese
As very often at Chanel, the two models correspond to each other. The house on Rue Cambon loves strong contrasts, Siamese twins. It plays with its two favorite colors, black and white. It's a Chanel peculiarity. From these two of the world's most common tones, Chanel has made its signature. More importantly: while current brands are scrambling to create the new trendy hue (salmon? Glacier blue? Malachite green?), Chanel does not deviate one iota and remains faithful to its iconic bichromy.
The two new J12 models highlight their majesty with a touch of gold. It is present on the central link of the bracelet. It's a first for Chanel. Until now, the brand had never used gold in its J12 bracelets. Without being a tour de force, one appreciates the perfect juxtaposition of Chanel's iconic ceramic on the outer links, coupled with 18-carat yellow gold in the center. The surfaces are roughly the same, but the feel is different, the reflection too. The watch is slightly heavier. The play on shades is subtle. It is rendered with the same finesse on the white model as on the black model. The ensemble is punctuated with 12 baguette diamonds marking the hours.
At the heart of the watch, the composition is similar, with a gold minute track on a black or white dial. The exercise is carried through to the end, with the tip of the second hand also crafted in black or white depending on the model.
Another uncommon detail: the gold-ringed bezel is filled with sapphire glass cut like baguette diamonds. Thus, there are 46 faceted parallelepipeds then varnished in black or white. The idea is clever. Although it is "only" sapphire glass, the jewelry imagination fully engages. It perceives despite itself the added value of what is traditionally, in this location, diamond. Cutting sapphire glass like diamond is crafty, inventive. One finds a certain form of playfulness dear to Chanel.
New 12.2 movement
These J12s perform every bit as well as they look. Chanel's watchmaking refines its technique. The two 33 mm pieces are driven by the Caliber 12.2. It is an automatic manufacture movement. It is made by Kenissi, an external production entity in which Chanel acquired a stake in 2018. Kenissi, founded in 2016 and located in Le Locle since 2021, originally stemmed from a Tudor initiative. The manufacture has specialized from the beginning in high-performance automatic movements, most often COSC certified. Besides Tudor, Kenissi also supplies Breitling and Chanel.
The Caliber 12.2 is a pure Kenissi product. Certified chronometer by the COSC, Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, it has a power reserve of about 50 hours. Miniaturized, it now fits in a 33 mm case. Equipped with a sapphire back, one can catch a glimpse of the uniquely oscillating mass, a Chanel specialty topped with a perfect circle.
The Caliber 12.2 follows the 12.1, which was derived in its time from the Tudor MT5600 movement, also COSC certified and boasting a 70-hour power reserve in its time. The "loss" of 20 hours of power reserve between the 12.1 and 12.2 is due to the miniaturization of the latter compared to the former: the Caliber 12.1 was adjusted in its time for a 38 mm case. It was therefore more imposing (including the barrel) than the 12.2, which is designed for a 33 mm case.
