Have you heard of “brutalism”? The term has recently entered the watchmaking world, though it originally comes from architecture, flourishing between the 1950s and 1970s. It’s known for its massive forms, raw concrete shapes with sharp lines and bold edges. A striking and divisive style, to say the least.
Until now, only one watch had openly embraced brutalism: Audemars Piguet’s (Re)Master02. But that was a faithful reproduction of a historical piece, an example of which can be found in the brand’s museum-workshop in Le Brassus. The RM 16-02 by Richard Mille, however, while drawing from the same inspiration, is an entirely original creation.
4mm thick—watchmaking that makes a statement
You might question the comparison. In truth, the RM 16-02 is far more refined and intricate than the heavy-handed geometry of the buildings it references. This second version of the RM 16 is also 10% smaller than the RM 16-01. Its case measures 26 x 31 mm, with a remarkably slim profile of just 4 mm. This sleek, ultramodern watch is a far cry from brutalist bulkiness.
The maze theme
Its design is exceptionally complex, built around the central concept of a labyrinth. That idea plays out in two ways. First, within the movement itself: 67 precisely cut openings punctuate the titanium bridges and plates. This is no small feat—titanium is notoriously hard to machine, with a tendency to ignite tool oil during cutting. So the precision and craftsmanship here deserve serious respect.
Second, the labyrinth shows up on the dial. Its layout is unconventional and asymmetrical. The hour markers are framed by broken, right-angled lines that zigzag around the dial. Roman numerals adapt as best they can, sacrificing portions here and there—the bottom stroke of the 2, the closure of the 8. The 5 is even missing altogether, its shape implied by the surrounding lines.
A bold, unapologetic design
Is it easy to read at a glance? Not really. But the human eye doesn’t need numbers to tell time. Richard Mille leans into this, crafting a watch that suggests more than it shows—shadows, depth, structure. The result is a design that might throw you off at first, but eventually pulls you in with its hypnotic complexity and unconventional beauty.
The same goes for the overall geometry: a rectangular case with a skeletonized rectangular movement. Few collectors are used to this kind of format. But great watchmaking isn’t just about pleasing the crowd. It’s also about daring innovation—pieces that challenge norms and take collectors far outside their comfort zones. The RM 16-02 does exactly that. It’s a bold, deliberate risk.
Sure, Richard Mille’s tonneau shapes have become widely accepted. But with the RM 16-02, it’ll take some effort to truly embrace it. That effort, however, is more than worth it. Because what you get is a piece that sharpens your perspective, expands your taste, and redefines what a watch can be. You may not wear it every day at first—but don’t be surprised if, eventually, it’s the only one you want to wear.
