In line with collectors' wishes, the workshop is now offering revisited and significantly smaller versions.
The DB25 Starry Varius XS has been given its explicit suffix in reference to its diameter trimmed from 42mm to 40.6mm. While its burgundy dial has already appeared on one-of-a-kind models and limited series, this is the first time it has been included in a regular collection.
This glowing watch face is framed by a titanium or rose gold case and the combination inevitably evoking a grand cru is an unmistakable visual hit. With its slimmer diameter, two central Breguet hands, crown at 3 o'clock and Roman numerals, De Bethune playfully draws on the lexicon of classic and timeless watchmaking to subvert its codes, notably with very slender in-house lugs. The timepiece is secured by a new alligator leather strap and the dial center offers a projection of the Milky Way, alternately composed of laser engravings coated with gold leaf deposits and pins of three different diameters representing the biggest stars.
The exhibition back of each model bears a plate engraved with its individual serial number. This is exactly the kind of rare and precious creation - far removed from usual vintages - that De Bethune has always known how to craft. To be worn on a full moon night, gazing at the Milky Way from a deckchair beneath a starlit sky, a fine burgundy within reach.
FROM DEEP RED TO DEEP BLUE
While the DB25xs exudes an almost classic char-acter, the new DB28xs Tourbillon Kind of Blue unapologetically displays its modern credentials. Even with its case drastically slimmed from 43mm to 38,7mm, the timepiece vividly showcases De Bethune's expertise. At 6 o'clock sits its ultra-light titanium and silicon tourbillon that is one of the rare 30-second variety, beating at a frequency of 36,000 vph. To mark this countdown, the tourbillon's seconds ring features 30 notches within a circular satin-finished titanium ring, compared with 6o for its counterpart on the minutes track.
For this new, perfectly unisex XS edition, De Bethune has adorned the dial with its dainty in-house Microlight guilloché pattern picked up on the three dial bridges, but with a subtle hidden touch: the distinctive motif is centered around the hands on the central bridge, yet offset on the tourbillon for the two side bridges. One cannot but admire this kind of bold discretion that truly shapes the identity of a dial and hence of a watch.
This noteworthy DB28xs Tourbillon Kind of Blue is the very first De Bethune tourbillon in XS format, representing a sensible strategy, as it is prized by many collectors who like to keep their tourbillons under 40mm. The move to a 38.7mm case also makes the new DB28 unisex, a status reinforced by the floating lugs that adapt to all wrists. They are finely crafted from blue-polished grade 5 titanium, a patent filed by De Bethune almost 20 years ago in 2006 and that has become one of its signature touches.
FROM OCEAN TO QUANTUM VACUUM
The DB28GS Swordfish represents De Bethune's interpretation of the dive watch. As usual with the L'Auberson-based workshop, the exercise is a far cry from prevailing watch industry norms. Its guiding principle is rather clever: whereas brands generally respond to the need for legibility by maximizing contrasts (such as white luminescent hands on a black dial), De Bethune achieves this by means of an internal lighting system which frees the color combinations from the need for contrast. Whatever tones are cho-sen, the light will illuminate them.
With the DB28GS Swordfish, De Bethune has designed a dark model combining a black zirconium case, black steel caseback and bezel with a black titanium dial, punctuated by a few blue accents (including the bridge and floating lugs). Pressing the 6 o'clock pusher lights up four LEDs at the dial's cardinal points. This 100% mechanical system is connected to the movement's barrel and can no longer be activated if the power reserve is down to less than one day out of five, as confirmed by an indicator between 8 o'clock and 10 o'clock.
Immersion times can be read using a unidirectional bezel in turn driving the sapphire crystal. The minutes track appears on the sapphire crystal itself, thereby streamlining the design while maintaining a precise and perfectly legible display thanks to the generous 44mm case that fits snugly on the wrist thanks to De Bethune's signature floating lugs. The timepiece is part of De Bethune's GS (Grand Sport) range.
SHIFTING TIME
At the same time, De Bethune is unveiling an unusual collaboration with visual artist and watchmaker Fiona Krüger. This table clock issued in a 20-piece limited edition is based on the passage of time governed by two variables: this flow is not constant (it speeds up or slows down) and it is relative (each observer has their own perception, notably depending on their location).
These fundamentals were long since established by Einstein and still inform the work of many physicists, including Carlo Rovelli. Denis Flageollet and Fiona Krüger have represented them through wood marquetry with mother-of-pearl inclusions evoking photons drifting through the cosmos. The cabinet opens to reveal the new physical world unfolding before the wondering gaze. Hours and minutes float in glass tubes, escaping our unified time. A rare and precious creation designed for dreamer-collectors.
Because you are a WorldTempus reader, we are delighted to offer you the digital version of the "GMT XXL CH 2025", which you can download here.
