These launches skillfully projected Panerai’s military legacy into the contemporary era, marked by the debut of two innovative new materials and significant technical achievements. An exceptional line up.
This 2026 Luminor release is set to please Paneristi, the brand’s most loyal followers. First, thanks to its scale, with six genuine new models unveiled. Second, because these creations highlight both the historical roots and technical expertise of the maison, particularly in robust construction, luminescence, power reserve and water resistance—the key pillars of Panerai’s identity. Finally, the collection strikes a balance between exclusive limited editions and pieces joining the core range, offering either neo-vintage charm or a more contemporary style.
47 mm, the iconic case
As is customary for the new Luminor models, a few reference numbers will need to be memorized. First up are 1735 and 1629. Both novelties proudly reiterate the iconic 47mm case dimension, directly echoing the legendary ref. 6152/1 of the 1960s. They are presented with an open case back and complemented by a domed sapphire crystal, a design choice that recalls the visual effect of the PERSPEX® used in 1960s Luminor watches. The two models also share a remarkable 100 meters water resistance and are powered by the same P.3000 hand-wound movement, offering 3 days of power reserve.. These features naturally go together: a large case houses a large 16½-line calibre, which includes a quick change of time function allowing for rapid hour adjustment in one-hour increments.
The 1735 is the simplest and most classic of the two. It showcases one of the effects most sought after by collectors: the natural aging of Panerai dials, which, when exposed to sunlight, tend to fade into a soft beige tone between brown and ivory. This is known as the « tropical effect ». The 1735 presents it today in its historical ivory coloration.
The 1629 explores a different register. For the first time in its history, Panerai presents a watch in forged titanium. This material is created by bonding two grades of titanium under heat and pressure, giving the piece a finish reminiscent of Damascus steel or certain forged carbons. Its natural wave-like pattern is particularly suited to a dive watch. The case, bezel, crown-protecting bridge, and lever are all made from this material, which is 40% lighter than steel, allowing this generous 47 mm 1629 to remain lightweight. The piece is limited to 100 units.
Panerai and titanium: 40 years of shared history
Panerai’s history with titanium dates back to 1985, with the introduction of the Mille Metri prototype in titanium—a 47 mm dive watch featuring the iconic crown-protecting bridge. Building on this heritage, Panerai officially incorporated titanium into its collection in 1998. Since then, the Maison has explored innovative constructions, such as Titanium DLMS, and new coatings like Titanium DLC, now elevated to an unprecedented, more complex and expressive form: Forged Titanium.
1731,1732 AND 1733: HERITAGE THAT FUELS PERFORMANCE
The new references PAM01731, PAM01732, and PAM01733 draw direct inspiration from the iconic 1960s ref. 6152/1. While the original measured 47mm, these models mark the first time Panerai has adapted this classic design to a more contemporary 44mm case size.
Heritage truly shines through in every design choice. PAM01731 features a tobacco dial, while PAM01733 presents a sophisticated anthracite shade complemented by a distinctive Brunito case finish.
Achieved through a PVD treatment and meticulous hand-polishing of darkened steel, this sumptuous finish not only reveals the artisan’s touch but also evokes Panerai’s tool-watch essence, reminiscent of the natural aging found on vintage metal equipment.
In terms of construction, PAM01732 stands out with its crown protecting bridge positioned on the left side. This thoughtful design pays homage to the historical needs of the military navy, ensuring the wearer's left hand remains free for other instruments.
All three references are powered by manual movements, echoing the robust calibres used in early dive watch prototypes. PAM01731 and PAM01732 are animated by the P.6000 calibre, offering a 3-day power reserve, while Luminor 8 Giorni PAM01733, as its name suggests, features the P.5000 calibre, providing an impressive 8 days of power reserve.
Further advancements are evident across all the models, including the choice of open case backs and an enhanced water resistance of 300 meters.
1631 LEGACY MEETS INNOVATION
The Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631 embarks on a more exploratory direction. This particular model stands out technically and is arguably Panerai's highlight at Watches and Wonders. To fully appreciate its significance, some historical context is essential.
Panerai and power reserve: a long-standing pursuit
Since the mid-1950s, extended power reserve has been a key element of Panerai’s identity. At that time, the brand used the Angelus SF240 hand-wound movement, then owned by Stolz Frères S.A.—a large 16-line calibre with a power reserve of around 200 hours, or eight days. This momentum continued with the Cal. P.2002 in 2005, Panerai’s first in-house movement, also offering an eight-day power reserve thanks to a three-barrel system. Panerai then introduced the P.2003 in 2007, its first in-house automatic movement, providing ten days of autonomy (240 hours).
Today, the story continues: Panerai once again pushes the boundaries with an extraordinary 31-day power reserve. The PAM01631, manufactured in a 44 mm GoldtechTM case (the Maison’s alloy of gold, copper, platinum, and silver), is powered by the new Cal. P.2031/S, featuring a 3.3-meter mainspring! Its 31 days of autonomy are achieved through 128 crown turns. Notably, the power reserve window displays 36 days, but thanks to two innovations that work in tandem - the patent-pending Torque Limiter system and the automatic stop mechanism - the brand has limited the mainspring’s use at both maximum and minimum tension to preserve the movement’s chronometry.
Further complementing these advancements is a notable innovation: a patented spring geometry and jumping hour hand mechanism. This design represents a true achievement in user convenience, making time-setting effortless and efficient. Even with its high complications, Panerai retains its original purpose of delivering elevated legibility and performance. This is evident in Panerai’s patented polarized date disc, visible solely through the 3 o’clock window. Only 200 skeleton-finished pieces will be produced.
1089 : A NEW EXPERIENCE AND A NEW MATERIAL
The new Submersible Navy SEALs Afniotech™ Experience PAM01089, unveiled during Watches and Wonders, stands as a testament to Panerai’s relentless pursuit of material innovation and water resistance.
Limited to just 35 pieces, this timepiece marks a significant material-first for Panerai with the debut of Afniotech™. Comprising over 95% hafnium, a very rare material, Afniotech™ boasts exceptional physical and chemical properties, including outstanding resistance to corrosion, making it particularly suited to high-performance technical environments. Further enhancing its tool-watch character, the PAM01089 achieves an impressive water resistance of 100 bar (equivalent to 1000 meters).
Powered by the P.9010/GMT calibre, it offers a robust 3-day power reserve, a date display, and a second timezone indication. Integrating Panerai’s core design pillars, the watch features a robust 47mm case with distinctive luminescent indexes and dots.
This novelty also unlocks an exclusive new Experience, scheduled for March 2027, granting a select few the opportunity to embark on a 3-day immersive journey, inspired by the discipline and resilience of the U.S. Navy SEALs.
