This spring in Geneva, horological trends unfolded. From major brands to smaller names and independent watchmakers, everyone has played a role in shaping the industry. From the official Watches and Wonders salon to Time to Watches nearby, and even throughout the city itself — in hotels, boutiques, and the Icebergues space taken over by the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) — more than 200 brands were represented.
This intense, watch-packed week gave us a first look at many eagerly awaited and heavily scrutinized releases. Some brands stayed in their lane, others rode the wave. The holy grail? That elusive balance where beauty is born from the harmony between form and function, innovation and tradition, heritage and risk — or even between luxury and restraint.
Trends (yes, they’re in the air)
So, what about the trends, you ask? Here’s a non-exhaustive summary of what our team at WorldTempus enjoyed: window-display watches (Cartier’s Tank leading the charge), gold-heavy masterpieces like Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds on a Milanese mesh bracelet, and headline-worthy complications — perpetual calendars and minute repeaters often combined, as seen in A. Lange & Söhne’s Minute Repeater Perpetual.
A Spring bursting with color
Once again, artistic craftsmanship and stone dials brought watchmaking closer to both art and nature. Think: straw marquetry on Chopard’s L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25, the playful Hermès Arceau Rocabar, H. Moser’s pop-art-inspired collection, or the stunning iron-eye stone introduced by Rolex on the Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II. Let’s not forget Patek Philippe’s Métiers d’Art exhibition and Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Shahmaneh. Dials were awash with color — from glacier blue (spotted on the Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon and the Parmigiani Toric Quantième Perpétuel Platinum Morning Blue) to fresh ceramic shades. Deep blue ceramics made a splash at Chanel (celebrating 25 years of the J12), and also popped up at Zenith and Audemars Piguet.
Other materials — like platinum and titanium (see: Kross Studio’s MT1) — provided sleek and interesting alternatives. And let’s talk about small diameters, big impact. Still riding the vintage wave, watches around 39mm (or even smaller!) keep on carving out their own path. Their petite, stamp-sized cases appeal to slender wrists — but not only — like the delightfully colorful Big Bang One Click Joyful collection.
Even after this intense week, you'll still find articles in our columns highlighting the hidden gems uncovered by our journalists.
As gold glitters… sobriety rises
At this industry-heavy event, we also saw a balance between opulence and restraint. On the one hand, the spectacle was in full force. Brands went big, eager to reconnect and unveil long-anticipated releases — like Vacheron Constantin’s Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch ever made. Notably, gold — trading at historic highs (over $3,000 an ounce) — was generously used in statement pieces. At Hublot and Chopard, anniversary or themed box sets brought together a selection of stunning pieces.
Restraint, given the less-than-cheerful economic climate. First, the market "correction" following the post-COVID sales boom has pressured for months the exports, compounded by declining sales in China and near-standstill activity in Russia. On top of that, the looming threat of tariffs—about as unpredictable as the stock market—cast a shadow over what had been a growing U.S. market. Ironically, while the internet is erasing borders, these taxes are building new economic walls. For example, the organizers of Watches and Wonders estimated the reach of the hashtag #watchesandwonders2025 at over 700 million people by the end of the event—a 17% increase from last year. “We’re shipping as many watches as we can to the U.S. before the new tariffs kick in,” shared the CEO of an exhibiting brand, capturing the sense of urgency sparked by the announcement of over 30% import duties on Swiss goods. That urgency eased somewhat a few days later when those tariffs were reduced to a more manageable—though officially “temporary”—10%.
In the end, watchmaking adapts, finds balance between opposing forces, and endures through time. And during this watchmaking week, the masters of time, both big and small, once again managed to put on a show.
