Georges Favre-Jacot: the visionary behind Zenith’s legacy
You know that after G.F.J founded Zenith in Le Locle 161 years ago, he developed it into the first fully- integrated Swiss watch manufacture; that Zenith has won more than 2,300 chronometry prizes for the accuracy of its movements; that aviation pioneer Louis Bleriot relied on a Zenith watch to keep track of time during his history-making flight across the English Channel; that one of Mahatma Ghandi’s few material possessions was a Zenith pocket watch; that Zenith is the only maker licenced to use the word ‘Pilot’ on its dials - and that, of course, the Zenith El Primero is still regarded as one of the greatest of all chronograph movements, 57 years after its launch.
From those who do know all that, Zenith garners the respect it has earned – and it’s at such brand connoisseurs that the G.F.J model was launched at last year’s Watches & Wonders as a vehicle to revive the celebrated, multi-prize-winning Calibre 135 movement which (save for a batch of observatory-quality 135-0s restored in 2022 for a run of 10 watches) had not ticked in earnest since 1962.
The rebirth of Calibre 135, a chronometry icon
The success of the platinum-cased, lapis lazuli-dialled, limited edition G.F.J of 2025 (160 made to mark the brand’s 160 years) has prompted Zenith to introduce two further models at this year’s Watches & Wonders.
The first features a case hewn from famously hard and lustrous tantalum which, while it makes for a wonderful looking watch case, is notoriously tricky to work – hence the ‘G.F.J in Tantalum’ will be available in just 20 pieces.
Baguette cut diamonds decorate the indexes atop a black onyx dial which is finished in the brick-pattern guilloche that’s a signature of G.F.J watches. This one also gets a small seconds sub dial in contrasting black mother-of-pearl.
Add in a blue, nubuck leather strap (or the black alligator and grey calfskin alternatives that are included with each purchase) and you have a superbly elegant, time-only dress watch that, thanks to its hand-wound, COSC-certified Calibre 135, is also one of the most accurate mechanical timepieces on the planet.
Less rare, but perhaps no less desirable, is the second version of the G.F.J to launch at this week’s Watches & Wonders.
This one is available in 161 examples and combines an elegant yellow gold case with a jasper green bloodstone dial centre, brick guilloche outer ring and green mother-of-pearl small seconds counter. Again, beige, green and black leather straps are supplied with the watch – or, for an unspecified amount of extra cash, there’s the option of a matching bracelet in yellow gold.
That, combined with the G.F.J’s standard, 39.15mm diameter case and classic, hand-wound movement sounds to us like the perfect retro-look three hander – and one that will quietly attract kudos from anyone who also regards Georges Favre–Jacot as a hero of horology who should be a whole lot more celebrated than he is…..
*** The G.F.J. in Tantalum costs CHF 73,900/Euro 82,700/USD 83,400. The G.F.J Bloodstone costs CHF 48,900/ Euro 54,000/USD 51,900.
