Precisely because I know the Geneva Watch Days well, I am convinced by the concept - not only as an event in itself but also as a structuring element in the way we work. It is a true horological moment, during which we talk about very technical products, reinforcing our status as a manufacture and highlighting TAG Heuer’s innovative spirit. It is also an opportunity for us to launch the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer and give it the visibility it deserves. At the same time, it is one of the rare occasions to interact with the watchmaking world at large and with members of the modern watchmaking community. From an image standpoint, I also find it very valuable to be associated with an event that strongly promotes entrepreneurs, independents, and highly creative brands. All these elements together create a very positive framework for the brand.
You are presenting models equipped with a carbon balance spring. What does this bring?
The balance spring is at the very heart of the movement and fundamentally forms the basis of a high-quality caliber. Its invention dates back 350 years and enabled the transformation of clocks into watches. Then, twenty years ago, came the silicon balance spring revolution, which made the spring immune to magnetism. But as this was a proprietary technology covered by many patents, TAG Heuer had no access to it, so our teams decided ten years ago to find an alternative: carbon.
A carbon balance spring has the same properties as silicon, with a few extra advantages such as absolute isochronism, lighter weight, and therefore less sensitivity to gravity. Today we have an extremely stable spring, regardless of humidity, temperature, pressure, or magnetism. This allows us, in the long term, to offer calibers that are extremely reliable, precise, and durable, whose accuracy remains consistent over time.
It powers two limited series in forged carbon with a strong technical content, at relatively aggressive prices. What are the ambitions?
These two new models - the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring and the TAG Heuer Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring, each limited to 50 pieces - showcase this fundamental innovation. In the short term, the goal is to place this carbon balance spring in the avant-garde calibers we will be developing in the coming years, mainly in the high-end segment. Manufacturing this product is costly, but we see it as a long-term investment that will not impact the retail price. Often in our field, the challenge goes beyond the product itself to its industrialization and production. For silicon balance springs, for example, there are more patents on the production techniques than on the spring itself. So progress must be made step by step. TAG Heuer will soon be presenting other major innovations as well.
With the new Astronomer trilogy, the TAG Heuer Carrera collection has radically changed style. What was the vision?
Honestly, at first I was surprised - and I really enjoyed being surprised - because it was the right kind of surprise. It is a classic product, but its very large moonphase creates an eye-catching aesthetic. The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer is also a nod to our history, since TAG Heuer took part in the space race in the 1960s. It fits within the tradition of functionality of the TAG Heuer Carrera, originally a chronograph distinguished by its ergonomics and outstanding legibility for drivers. So, this is a way of respecting the function of the original TAG Heuer Carrera, by enlarging the moonphase display to its maximum for improved readability. This results in a presentation of the moonphase that is highly original, very different, very creative - and yet very true to who we are as a brand.
Moreover, I love being unsettled by an unusual aesthetic that creates a very original product. I also greatly appreciate the elegance of the color choices, which again are very true to our identity: TAG Heuer was born from chronographs, often with tri-color dials that create contrast and differentiation between the hour, minute, second, and chronograph functions. Here, we have tri-color codes but in a subtle way. The teams have shown creativity where you don’t always expect it - it was very clever.
Earlier this year you announced TAG Heuer’s return as official timekeeper of the Formula 1 circuit. Do you already see the effects?
Yes. We see the effects firstly in terms of visibility - the brand is very strongly exposed, and in a qualitative way. We also measure it through traffic in our boutiques, and through the success of our collections linked to Formula 1, such as the TAG Heuer Monaco and TAG Heuer Formula 1 - particularly the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph and the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph. This will continue to build momentum, since we are still in a year of transition, and the markets will seize the enormous potential of each Grand Prix as a local platform - we have many ideas. What’s more, the F1 organizers see us as a true partner and come forward with proposals to further increase visibility, for example with the F1 Academy and women’s races.
The GPHG will hold its 25th edition this year. In your opinion, what has it contributed since 2001?
I would draw a parallel between the GPHG and the Geneva Watch Days: both are events that showcase the diversity of watchmaking, which I find remarkable. In a world of information overload, there are not many platforms that highlight watchmaking players who are not necessarily major brands, and this has been achieved quite successfully. Overall, the GPHG has given prominence to the exceptional, and the brands I have worked for have benefited greatly from it. But the exceptional must also coexist with performance across all price ranges of Swiss watchmaking.
