In general, I think that trade shows are excellent platforms for launches, to meet clients and the media, but care must be taken to ensure there are not too many, such as in Geneva, for example. Unless there is an ability to renew the audience, it ends up being addressed to the same people repeatedly. Beyond the cost, which remains very reasonable at the Geneva Watch Days, we deploy a lot of energy with our teams. The number of visitors is increasing, and that's very positive, but the base remains similar, and the question of relevance arises. During the Covid period, it was an excellent initiative, but Watches & Wonders has since been propelled into a completely different dimension, and we are already 200% invested in its organization. In the meantime, we are indeed exhibiting at the SIAR and Watch Time on the American continent, which are very specific and important for these markets, and then at the biennial Dubai Watch Week, which has established itself as a magnificent must-attend event, which all brands look forward to participating in.
The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is celebrating its 25th edition, what does this institution bring to watchmaking according to you?
Firstly, in my opinion, this event brings together the watchmaking community. I find it interesting that this community rewards the best creations of the year, thereby providing peer recognition to those most deserving. This year, two of our watches are selected, and I see our teams are super motivated by this prospect. Whether you win or not, it will strengthen the brand’s reputation, but without altering its year much; commercial success is what matters most. However, bringing a prize back to the manufacture is always a great pride for the collaborators. I find it quite strong and highly motivating. Like everyone, I find it unfortunate that many brands choose not to participate. Even if everything isn’t perfect, the GPHG is one of the key events on the watchmaking calendar.
Despite a very complex situation, your brand is still growing. What's your secret?
The key to success, for me, is a company with a healthy financial foundation that allows generating a margin. With a strong financial base, even in a complicated situation like the one we are experiencing, it is possible to continue investing. Particularly in marketing, for example with larger exhibition areas at trade shows, and in R&D. All this requires substantial resources. Yet the company has no debt and is profitable, making it extremely healthy. We control our costs to be able to offer products at reasonable prices while clearly positioning ourselves in the luxury segment. The management of our growth involves an obsession with effectiveness and efficiency at all stages of production and distribution, especially as we progress in terms of volume. Today we employ 120 people and achieve sales sometimes exceeding those of some brands that have two or three times more employees, which doesn't make sense. H. Moser & Cie must also remain in the premium segment, and marketing enhances its desirability. We can still gain significant market share. We are approaching 2026 with many new products and challenges, it will be a fireworks display!
How do you work on innovation within the manufacture and the companies in which you've invested?
We invest heavily in innovation with a dozen people dedicated to it, particularly in research and development. We are very creative and need to learn to become even more innovative. We also surround ourselves with people and partners with a very creative mindset, like Agenhor, but we must remain open to technologies from other fields as well. Brands that have been successful in recent years stand out for their ability to innovate, such as Audemars Piguet or Richard Mille. The resources we allocate allow us to work on long-term projects, whether it's new materials or new calibers. The potential is dream-inspiring.
How do you choose your retailers today?
For new distribution partners, we have conducted an analysis of markets that we consider strategic, where our presence can still develop, and there are still many, whether it is China, Korea, or the United States, as well as emerging territories. We prioritize choosing retailers who have a certain reputation and already represent strong major brands, and who understand ours while wishing to accompany it in its growth. It’s a gentle blend of relationship-building and rationality.
How do new Moser clients have different expectations from those who have followed you since the launch of the Streamliner?
Even though the growth has been very significant over the past three years, our client profiles have changed little, as they essentially come from the same community and influence each other. Our historical clients are often true fans who act almost like influencers and bring their friends and networks, they attend the same events, and we convert new clients there. We are witnessing a slight rejuvenation of the clientele, perhaps due to our product strategy. Historically, we offered an entry-level, then quickly moved to chronographs, QP, or tourbillons in a much higher price range. We have introduced new products between these two segments to offer complications on more accessible models. There exists a clientele of collectors seeking spectacular watches at prices that can be considered reasonable compared to those of some major brands.
Among your 4 collections, which one stood out with the best results this year?
The Streamliner, clearly. Yet this year, we mostly launched the Endeavour and the Pioneer, which specifically target a younger clientele. These models are positioned in the sport-chic segment; watch enthusiasts are looking for pieces that can be worn easily, in any circumstance. It's the beach x Tuxedo trend with a watch suited to both suits and shorts. Sometimes, simply changing the strap can give a completely different identity.
In a very unpredictable environment, how do you continue to captivate clients?
In my opinion, by being very active and innovative, and making it known. This requires resources, and we are fortunate enough to be in a sufficiently comfortable position to dedicate them. We also invest heavily in the client experience, to get closer to them, so they become our ambassadors and continue to grow the community. We naturally remain vigilant about the state of the world, but we demonstrate confidence and dynamism, as you will discover at Watches & Wonders.
