Independent & the 'BIG names' - part 2

Chronicle

A few weeks ago I wrote about differences between Independent watchmakers & the 'BIG name' brands. In a series of Chronicles I'll try to shed some light on existing differences, like the difference in marketing budgets. Part 2 will be about how a new idea for a watch goes from idea to final product.

Maybe the biggest differences between Independents and 'BIG names' is the scale they operate on. The differences actually couldn't be bigger. The ‘BIG names' usually have hundreds or thousands of employees. Mostly they are part of a group, like Richemont, LVMH or Swatch Group. These large companies usually have departments for every aspect of the design, production, communication and distribution process. Independent watchmakers usually have a few or sometimes no employees at all. No departments… it's all done by one or a few people.

This is one of the factors that must have a huge effect on how a new product comes from idea to final product. And this is actually one of the factors that make watches from Independent Watchmakers so interesting, at least to me.

The 'BIG names' not only have many employees, they also have huge production numbers, a large network of distributors, retailers and many affiliated businesses. To say it simple, there's a lot at stake. I assume it's logical these companies main focus is creating and producing watches that appeal to customers taste, budget, etc. And thus reducing risk.

I don't know how many departments are involved before a new watch is presented during the SIHH or Baselworld. I assume there are a lot of departments that all have a role in this process. Design (case, dial, etc.), technical design (movement, case construction, etc.), production, marketing, communication, customer service and of course several layers of management… All with their own responsibilities and targets. The departments will have to work together to create a new watch, produce it and make sure it finds it's way to the customers. I assume such a process (from idea to final product) means a lot of concessions. And although there are more hands and minds at work, the many meetings must take a lot of time…

Independent watchmakers have just a few or sometimes no employees at all. They produce a small number of watches per year, have no distribution network and in the best case a few retailers. Maybe it's harsh to say, but the impact of decreased sales influences less families than with the 'BIG names'. On the other hand… no design department, no production department, no marketing department, no communication department, etc. This probably means less time-consuming meetings, less concessions and more freedom to create something really new or innovative. Just think of Independents like Urwerk, Greubel Forsey and MB&F. Very innovative! Both technical and in terms of design.

A watch designed and produced by an Independent watchmaker might have a stronger design, however not all Independent watchmakers are gifted with a taste that appeals to many customers. Some are better in technical aspects, some are better in design. And some are gifted with both talents. Just take a look at the Observatoire from Kari Voutilainen to see a perfect dress watch, classic, a beautiful design and a movement of the very highest degree.

In a few weeks you can read my next chronicle about Independent watchmakers & the 'BIG names'.