What trends have you noticed at WW?
Despite a complex environment, there was remarkable enthusiasm from our clients, the press, and visitors. In fact, for the first time, Baume & Mercier sold directly to its end customers during the show. This was a first and we noticed major excitement for this initiative.
Beyond that, we've observed the importance of authenticity. Customers are sensitive to it. They recognize the authenticity of brands with several centuries of experience that still today know how to articulate their heritage with modern creations. We also noticed strong enthusiasm for vintage. To address this, we unveiled a limited edition of 73 pieces of our Riviera flyback chronograph, with a very retro look. We also noticed a reduction in diameters. What was 43 mm goes to 41 mm. The 40 mm goes down to 39 mm.
Finally, colored dials have won significant approval. It's something Baume & Mercier has always practiced and continues to do, as demonstrated by our latest Riviera 33 mm quartz watches in summer colors.
The Baumatic movement was launched almost 10 years ago, in 2017. How do you view it and what developments do you see for it?
It's an essential element of our collections today. It powers 100% of our Cliftons. It proves our horological authenticity, our legitimacy. It has a five-day power reserve, which is extraordinary for a widespread and very accessible movement of this type. We want to reinforce its importance by particularly stressing education among the general public about its many benefits.
The collaboration with Soulages has been unanimously praised. Are you considering renewing this type of approach?
Regarding Soulages, the partnership is still active. We will therefore soon have new releases inspired by his universe. However, we are not looking for "collab for the sake of collab." Everything we do must be in respect of our heritage, our roots, and must be executed with as much audacity as simplicity, which perfectly matched the spirit of the first pieces we created with Soulages. We will continue in this direction.
What about the offer intended for the "younger" audience? The Clifton Club collection intended for them has been discontinued...
Only those who attempt nothing risk nothing! In reality, we are focused on two very specific directions. The first indeed concerns young customers. It preserves the Baume & Mercier watch as one for celebratory moments. We've always been the watch given for a diploma, a first job, a union. It's something that matters as much to us as it does to our clients, who are very attached to it.
The second direction is refocusing on our historic collections and thus on our horological legitimacy, that of a house soon to have two centuries of uninterrupted history. It is with this perspective that we ended the Baume collection in March. It was an independent development that we did not want to pursue to refocus on our core horological business.
The heritage of Baume & Mercier is of an unknown richness, notably in terms of design, but also its early movements. How could it be better showcased?
It's indeed a heritage of incredible richness. When I arrived at the brand’s management, less than a year ago, the first thing I did was visit our museum collections. We have 1200 pieces. It's a colossal heritage. We are currently developing a dynamic plan which should lead, from 2026 to 2027, to a traveling collection of our most iconic pieces.
Baume & Mercier will be 200 years old in less than 5 years. How do you envision the event?
I can't tell you more about it today. We are indeed starting to work on this historic event. The direction will not be that of high watchmaking as such, but there will be a lot of creativity, surprises. We're not ruling anything out!
