Richard Mille : RM 53-01, something indestructible for Pablo!
There is no better person that Pablo Mac Donough who understands the violence of shocks in polo. Six years after the first RM 053 was designed for his wrist, Richard Mille has pushed the limits of resistance even further with the RM 053-01, which now has a tourbillon! Two years were required to develop the new, patented layered sapphire crystal, a world-first in watchmaking. The spirit of innovation is also seen the movement architecture, with crossed cams and a system of pulleys and tensioners that leave the mainplate floating in mid-air. The 0.27mm thick cables (that’s three hair’s breadths!) keep the entire movement suspended, making it capable of resisting accelerations of up to 5,000 g. It is a limited edition of 30, but the structure of the TPT carbon case makes each one unique. The watch naturally comes in the colours of the Argentinean flag and the aesthetics and functions work together as well as the polo player and his steed.. - Brice Lechevalier
Baume & Mercier : Baumatic
Yes, my favourite of the day is a “simple” base calibre. After all, this is the kind of thing that powers the overwhelming majority of watches in the world. But there was nevertheless still room for progress. In terms of precision, resistance to magnetic fields, and especially in terms of power reserve. Baume & Mercier has used the expertise of the Richemont group to develop, for its own exclusive use, the Baumatic. The result: five days of power reserve, resistance to magnetic fields of 1500 Gauss, a chronometer movement and – the icing on the cake – service intervals of five years. Maybe even more, depending on the tests that the brand is carrying out. And the finished watch costs just 2,500 Swiss francs in stores. Many people may overlook this watch in the mass of new watches seen at the SIHH. But that would be a mistake: the Baumatic is quite simply redefining the specifications of a non-complicated watch. It’s a must-have. - Olivier Müller
Audemars Piguet : Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Volant GMT
Audemars Piguet. The Tourbillon GMT model has just been taken in an even more radical direction. The dial is in titanium and breaks with the tradition of its predecessor, which was characterised by a ceramic hour-glass-shaped bridge. It now has three-dimensional facets which evoke the facadism of contemporary architecture and have rose-gold accents. The 10-day movement has also changed, since it now has a flying tourbillon. The bridges have been reworked and the model is now uncluttered. The Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon GMT is one of the rare watches at the SIHH 2018 that resolutely refuses to play the tradition/nostalgia/classic card. - David Chokron
