Top 5 : Case Closed

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Montre Tambour Convergence, Automatique, 37 mm, or rose © Louis Vuitton
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At the moment we see a lot of closed cases. Maybe it is a reaction against the plenitude of skeletonized watches? Anyway, on these enclosed timepieces small apertures tell time, but the rest of the dial is hidden. This often creates a canvas for metiérs d’art or novel materials. These are my 5 favorites at the moment, and 4 of them are nominated in various categories in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

1. Audemars Piguet - Neo Frame Jumping Hour

Ah, the 1920s Art Deco: straight-lined geometries, flappers, champagne coupes, the time when jumping hour wristwatches were fresh. The Neo Frame Jumping Hour evokes all this, and more. But in a contemporary way – for instance the hours and minutes are protruding through a black PVD-treated sapphire dial If I could ask Santa’s workshop for only one thing, it would be to make a smaller version of the rectangular gold case.

Neo Frame Jumping Hour with a PVD-treated sapphire dial © Audemars Piguet

2. Czapek - Time Jumper

Released for its tenth anniversary and nominated in the GPHG Complication category, Czapek has applied a half-hunter cover on the front of this flying saucer-shaped timepiece. The lid also serves as a canvas for a swirling guilloché pattern, which sucks you in like a black hole. Extra points for having a dual-disc system showing 24 hours. 

The Time Jumper has applied a half-hunter cover on the front of this flying saucer-shaped timepiece © Czapek

3. Konstantin Chaykin - Thinking Mystery

The Thinking Mystery shows the hours and the minutes in two apertures, whereas the rest is enclosed. If you know Konstantin Chaykin, you also know that he loves to create mechanical smileys. Last but not least, this is the slimmest mechanical watch ever, with a thickness of a mere 1.65 millimeters.

Thinking Mystery, the slimmest mechanical watch ever, with a thickness of a mere 1.65 millimeters © Konstantin Chaykin

4. Beda'a - Angles Guichets

With an octagonal case and a “dial” with engraved stripes, this watch from the young brand founded in 2016. The 24-hour disc on the Angles Guichet (guichet is French for aperture) may only display 1–12, but night or day is clarified by the sun or the moon travelling across the hour scale.

Beda'a Angles Guichets with an octagonal case and a “dial” with engraved stripes © Beda'a

5. Louis Vuitton - Tambour Convergence

With the 37-millimeter Tambour Convergence in rose gold or platinum Louis Vuitton not only converges fashion and haute horlogerie, it also creates a meeting point of a minimalist complication and expressive, wavy, hand-made guilloché. The essentials are made inside Le Fabrique du Temps, Louis Vuitton’s manufacture close to Geneva. 

Montre Tambour Convergence, Automatic, 37 mm, Rose gold © Louis Vuitton

FAQ

What are the top 5 “case closed” watches with hidden dials?

The selection includes the Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour, Czapek Time Jumper, Konstantin Chaykin Thinking Mystery, Beda’a Angles Guichets, and Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence, four of which are nominated at the GPHG.

What is a jumping hour watch?

A jumping hour watch displays the hour as a numeral that jumps instantly from one digit to the next at the top of the hour, rather than via a traditional sweeping hand.

What is the Konstantin Chaykin Thinking Mystery?

The Thinking Mystery shows hours and minutes through two apertures, with the rest of the dial enclosed; at just 1.65 millimeters thick, it’s the slimmest mechanical watch ever made.

What is the Czapek Time Jumper?

Released for Czapek’s tenth anniversary and nominated in the GPHG Complication category, the flying-saucer-shaped Time Jumper features a half-hunter cover with swirling guilloché and a dual-disc 24-hour display.

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