Top 5 Enamel Watches

1. The most spectacular: Patek Philippe “Rare Handcrafts” – Watch Art Exhibition

In Milan, Patek Philippe’s Watch Art exhibition currently features a large number of pieces adorned with artistic crafts. Enamel takes centre stage, very often executed by the manufacture’s favourite artist, Anita Porchet. Among other works, she has created a piece whose tiny sections of different colours demonstrate her absolute mastery of the art of cloisonné enamelling. This technique consists of separating the various parts of a single image with a fine gold wire, thereby delineating sections of different colours. This miniature art makes it possible to reproduce complex landscapes with unparalleled precision. 

2. The most outrageous: Jaquet Droz “Les Volumes du Temps”

Jaquet Droz, which produces only unique pieces, enjoys creating beyond the beaten track. In response to the traditional, flat enamel found almost everywhere, the workshop has come up with a stunning three-dimensional creation, Les Volumes du Temps. The design was developed by a young independent artist, who conceived two substantial central sections of extraordinary height that meet high above, level with the dial, adorned with blue enamel that gradually fades as it approaches the bezel. A tour de force.

3. The most innovative: Breguet’s phosphorescent enamel

As part of the 250th anniversary of its founding, Breguet unveiled a new iteration of its Marine Hora Mundi 5555. Its dial is a showcase of enamelling techniques. First, the continents are rendered in miniature enamel painting. Second, Breguet’s artisans turn the sapphire dial over and paint a series of clouds on its front, bringing life and realism to the composition. This layer of clouds is also executed using enamel painting. Finally, the illuminated cities at night are depicted in turn. To make them glow at night, the easy option would have been to use Super-LumiNova, but Breguet opted for a more refined approach, using miniature painting with phosphorescent enamel, which is currently the subject of a patent application. Brilliant!

4. The rarest: Les Cabinotiers – Grisaille Haute Joaillerie Dragon

The art of enamelling most often results in an explosion of delicate, nuanced colours. There is, however, an exception: the art of rendering relief using a single colour, ranging from the lightest to the darkest shade. This play of light and shadow creates perspective within a dial. This gradient technique, known as “grisaille”, has recently been brought back into the spotlight by Vacheron Constantin in its Les Cabinotiers collection. What makes this piece distinctive is its departure from the standard practice of using only black and grey, focusing exclusively on green instead. The spectacular creation almost gives the illusion of a jade dial. 

5. The most delicate: Van Cleef & Arpels’ plique-à-jour enamel

The traditional enamelling technique involves applying powder to a solid metal base and firing it at a very high temperature several times. There is, however, a variation in which the enamel is suspended as a paste within a frame before being fired. With no backing, light can pass through the thin enamel wall: this is known as plique-à-jour, which more or less reproduces the principle of stained glass. Van Cleef & Arpels has mastered this delicate art and occasionally uses it to adorn its exceptional creations.