The Crash has reached such a status among collectors that any modification is now met with resistance. Cartier, however, has found a way to explore its evolution through the Cartier Privé capsule collection, where the latest skeleton version represents a new milestone.
It remains difficult to predict why a watch design, or even its name, will succeed. Cartier illustrates this perfectly. Names such as Tank, Baignoire or Tortue would hardly have seemed promising from a marketing perspective. The same applies to Bvlgari’s “Tubogas,” literally meaning “gas pipe” in Italian. Yet all have become highly sought after by collectors.
A collector’s favorite
Design follows a similar logic. ArtyA once achieved success with a guitar-shaped watch (Son of Sound), while Girard-Perregaux did the same with a model inspired by a cap visor, aptly named “Casquette”.
In 1967, Cartier introduced a watch whose case appeared almost crushed, like warped metal. Despite its unconventional aesthetic, it proved to be a defining success: the Crash became a symbol of refined watch design.
As Marwan B. from the CollectorSphere community explains, the Crash stands out as one of the most distinctive watches ever created. Its strong visual identity has elevated it to iconic status. He notes that his platinum version offers a particularly compelling reinterpretation, remaining very close to the original 1967 design while introducing a modern touch through the choice of material.
A standout at auction
Collector interest is also evident at auctions. A Crash was recently sold by Sotheby’s for nearly $2 million, setting a new record for a Cartier watch. This piece was one of only three produced in 1987. Early examples, crafted by hand at the Bond Street workshop, often feature the “Cartier London” signature, whereas later versions from the 1990s onward were made in Paris. The previous record - $1.5 million - was already held by a 1967 Crash sold in 2022.
Understanding the origins of the Crash
The history of the Crash is deeply intertwined with that of the Cartier family, as watch historian Dominique Fléchon explains: “The third generation of Cartier was made up of three children who, to simplify, each took charge of a specific geographic region. Louis oversaw Paris, Pierre New York, and Jacques London,” he points out.
“Jacques later had a son, Jean-Jacques (1919–2010), who became the owner and director of Cartier London in the 1960s. At that time, Cartier London operated its own ‘creative laboratory.’ Eager to preserve Cartier’s distinctive spirit of innovation, Jean-Jacques Cartier and his designer Ruppert Emmerson drew inspiration from the Maxi Oval watch, also known as the elongated Baignoire, while maintaining the Maison’s defining features: Roman numerals, sword-shaped hands, and a cabochon-set winding crown. According to a recording by Jean-Jacques Cartier, the concept behind the watch was as follows: ‘Imagine an oval, pinch it to create a point, then fold it in the middle.’ The resulting ‘distorted’ form was initially paired with a cracked dial, but this feature was ultimately abandoned because, according to J.-J. Cartier, it detracted from the watch’s aesthetic appeal. It is entirely true that the Crash reflects the creative energy of 1960s London, particularly in areas like Chelsea and the West End. However, the notion that its shape resulted from an accident is purely a marketing narrative. I have even heard claims that an employee accidentally created the form by trapping a prototype in a safe door, which is equally false. In reality, it is a deliberate design exercise, originally built around a Jaeger movement (the 841), as Jaeger was then the creative hub for Cartier Paris and Cartier New York.”
“The development of the case template proved to be a major challenge for Eric Denton, master watchmaker at Cartier London and responsible for reconciling design with mechanical constraints. The dial, in particular, posed significant difficulties, as the numerals did not align with the conventional positions indicated by the hands. Its production required multiple lengthy and costly adjustments. This is an asymmetrical watch that is extremely difficult to manufacture. Mass production would be exceptionally complex and, in any case, it would likely not achieve widespread commercial success. It remains a timepiece for discerning collectors. In 1967, the Crash retailed for around $1,000, equivalent to approximately €6,750 today, a relatively modest sum considering the time and effort invested in its research and production.”
A preserved design
This bold design approach is central to Cartier’s identity. More conventional models such as Clé, Drive and Diver achieved only moderate success and were quickly discontinued. Collectors expect originality from Cartier, yet once a model becomes iconic, they are reluctant to see it altered. This dynamic explains why watches like Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, Patek Philippe’s Nautilus and Calatrava, and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso remain very close to their original designs.
The role of Cartier Privé
Cartier addresses this challenge through the Cartier Privé collection. Produced in limited series, it offers a space for creative experimentation without affecting the core collections. The new Crash is part of this framework and introduces three main developments.
A new “caliber-dial” approach
The first concerns the movement. The previous skeleton version, developed in 2014 under Carole Forestier-Kasapi, focused on revealing the mechanism through an open-worked dial. In the 2026 version, Cartier goes further by removing the dial entirely and creating a single, fully skeletonized “caliber-dial” structure. This maximizes transparency, with a patented system in which the hour markers also function as bridges.
A subtle yet meaningful change
The second evolution involves the crown. With the case design unchanged, this was one of the few elements open to modification. It has been repositioned from 3 o’clock to 4 o’clock, aligning more naturally with the case’s curve. While discreet, this adjustment significantly alters the overall balance and would be difficult to reverse.
A broader production run
The third point concerns production. The watch is limited to 150 pieces—more than twice the 67-piece run of the 2014 platinum skeleton version, a number that referenced the year 1967. This increase offers greater access for collectors, even as Cartier Privé maintains its exclusive positioning.
