De Bethune and the New Frontiers of Chronometry
In Sainte-Croix this spring, De Bethune’s co-founder Denis Flageollet unveiled the DB8 XS monopusher chronograph—a 40 mm reinterpretation of one of horology’s most respected complications. But more than a revival, it’s a continuation of Flageollet’s relentless quest to transcend conventional timekeeping. “Industry standards analyze 5 to 7 positions. But today’s tech can do much more. Standards are useful, yes—but for us, they’re limitations,” he explains.
This mindset has guided De Bethune’s horological experiments since the its foundation in 2022. A prime example: the DB25T Regulator Tourbillon, launched in 2011, featured a 30-second high-frequency tourbillon—more accurate, yet ironically excluded from chronometry competitions for defying the one-minute norm. It’s a telling story of how innovation can be penalized for not fitting old molds.
De Bethune is now pursuing “Sensoriel Chronometry” a research project launched in late 2022. A wearable prototype records over two million data points per hour during a two-week trial, yielding insights into the wearer’s unique rhythms. The resulting watch is then customized to those behaviors—a process so intricate that only five such pieces can be made annually.
The brand is also tackling one of horology’s oldest obstacles: the balance spring. With suppliers offering only standardized profiles, Flageollet is investing to produce custom diameters. This push toward vertical integration further cements De Bethune’s pioneering role in reimagining mechanical precision for today.
Horological Fantasies Become Reality with L’Épée 1839
L’Épée 1839 continues to blur the line between timepiece and kinetic sculpture. In 2024, the maison brought mythology, military motifs, and childhood wonder into its mechanical universe.
The Dragon, a tribute to Chinese mythology, houses the brand’s 1853 caliber in an intricately sculpted body offered in gold, palladium, and lacquered finishes. The Watch Box, another standout, elevates the humble storage case with a self-winding system activated by its own closing motion.
Artistic collaborations brought further surprises. The Grenade x The Dial Artist series transformed an object of destruction into a ticking artwork with painted surfaces and a dramatic activation by pin-pull. The MB&F-designed Albatross—a Jules Verne-inspired marvel—features 32 propellers and a chiming automaton weighing 17 kg, limited to just eight per color. And for racing enthusiasts, the T35 celebrates L’Épée’s 185th anniversary with a racecar-shaped movement, wound through rear wheels and featuring a flame hidden under the hood.
Each creation exemplifies the brand’s ability to fuse the art of mechanics with imagination.
The Display Window Returns to the Forefront of Fine Watchmaking
Display windows, or guichets, are experiencing a revival. These timepieces eschew hands for jumping numerals seen through apertures, offering a clean, architectural form of time display.
Cartier brought back its Tank à Guichets with minimalist elegance and three metal options—rose, yellow, and platinum—powered by the manual 9755 MC. Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Convergence went bold with nearly 800 diamonds and a platinum case housing an in-house LFMA01.01 caliber. Meanwhile, Bremont entered new territory with its Terra Nova Jumping Hour, pairing mechanical innovation with exploration-inspired aesthetics.
The guichet’s resurgence also includes Jaeger-LeCoultre’s dual-faced Reverso Tribute Nonantième, IWC’s nod to its 1884 Pallweber with dual-window simplicity, and De Bethune’s futuristic DB28 Digitale, merging digital-era visuals with poetic moonphase mechanics.
These models affirm the guichet’s role as a heritage format newly relevant for modern design expression.
Platinum Takes the Spotlight at Watches & Wonders 2025
Platinum has emerged as a favorite among materials in luxury horology this spring. Coveted for its rarity, weight, and subdued elegance, platinum is being embraced by top maisons for its subtlety and complexity.
Brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, and A. Lange & Söhne showcased new platinum-cased masterpieces. The metal’s structure poses challenges, requiring three times the tooling compared to gold—yet the results are unmatched in luster and longevity.
Noteworthy releases include Patek’s Calatrava ref. 6196P, Parmigiani’s Morning Blue perpetual calendar, and a platinum edition of Cartier’s Tank à Guichets. With global exports of platinum timepieces continuing to rise, this noble metal remains the quiet favorite for collectors who value discretion over ostentation.
Desert Tones Lead the Way in 2025’s Quiet Luxury Watch Trend
A shift toward earthy minimalism is defining this year’s aesthetic direction. Beige, sand, and terracotta hues dominated dials at Watches and Wonders 2025, with brands like Hermès, Rolex, and Oris leaning into tones reminiscent of desert landscapes.
Color specialist Sara Garanty linked this palette to a cultural search for peace and groundedness amid uncertainty. Watches like the Hermès Arceau in rich brown or AP’s sand-gold Code 11.59 reflect this emotional and visual reset.
This new chromatic language offers warmth, subtlety, and a break from the cold shine of steel or the predictability of black. It’s tactile, soothing, and perfectly in step with a world yearning for authenticity.
Chopard Reveals Two Alpine Eagles on Opposite Ends of the Scale
Chopard’s latest Alpine Eagle models offer a lesson in extremes. The Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF weighs just 75 grams in ceramized titanium and features a chronometer-certified, high-frequency caliber. With aerospace-grade materials and sharp finishing, it’s a study in performance minimalism.
Conversely, the Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum is a heavyweight masterpiece, tipping over 300 grams. This ultra-thin piece boasts Geneva Seal certification and a platinum micro-rotor—plus the debut of a hand-engraved bee hallmark, a subtle nod to exclusivity.
Together, these timepieces redefine the boundaries of luxury: one is agile and futuristic, the other dense and timeless.
