Since its inception, the watch has been round for the simple reason that its basic component, the wheel, is round (let's not forget the Masterpiece Régulateur Roue Carrée signed by Maurice Lacroix in 2010, but let's bet it's more the exception than the rule). Subsequently, watchmakers have adapted the geometry of their movements to that of the case. The exercise is that of the so-called "shaped" movements. The best-known is the Reverso: rectangular case, rectangular movement. Independent watchmaker Vincent Calabrese, with his Spatial collection, has come full circle by shaping his movements according to the letters of the alphabet. Topic closed?
Not quite. After the letters come the numbers. The "8" is over-represented because of its double roundness, but also because of its "lucky charm" in Asian countries, which is why it can be found at Jaquet Droz...and Cvstos. The latter, which designs and manufactures its own calibres, seems to be taking the exercise to the extreme with its Tourbillon 8. The "8", with its two circles one above the other, is a perfect playground for watchmakers. Especially for those celebrating their anniversary, as is the case at Cvstos, which turns 20 in 2025. And what better way to celebrate 20 than with an 8?
20 x 8
The idea is offbeat. Like Cvstos. The brand is rarely that of the first-time buyer, more often that of the collector in search of alternative, technical and demonstrative watchmaking. The Tourbillon 8, a true anniversary piece, has something in common with the 81-year-old maestro Calabrese: it magnifies the movement - and the movement alone - through a construction of rare audacity. No artifice, no revolutionary materials, no TikTok ambassador. Just a watch and its movement. The movement is the dial and the aesthetic signature. It is central, inescapable. The case has never lived up to its name so well: it serves the caliber.
8 perfect
For this edition, available in titanium, gold or sapphire, Cvstos has returned to the curved rectangular case around which the company has built its identity. For the first two versions, the case is openworked on all sides: front, back and case middle are in sapphire crystal. This reveals the complexity of the movement: on the dial side, the "8" appears perfect, while a glance at the caseback reveals two vertical bridges on either side of the number, but totally concealed by the gear train. It's clear that Cvstos worked closely with the technical and aesthetic aspects throughout the development process.
One last turn of the wheel
The choice of a flying tourbillon is also noteworthy. By its very nature, it has no upper bridge. Contrary to popular belief, it is no more fragile than a traditional double-bridge tourbillon. Cvstos has integrated the anti-shock system directly into the base of the movement, making its Tourbillon 8 suitable for everyday use.
A final special feature: a 60-hour power reserve. However, the discerning eye will have noticed the modest size of the barrel at 12 o'clock, just above the tourbillon. Watchmaking magic? By no means. In reality, the secret is much simpler: the Cvstos Tourbillon 8 beats at the gentle frequency of 18,000 vib/h, or 2.5 Hz. It's a low frequency, rare (after Montblanc, we've just rediscovered it at Zenith), but by definition not greedy. Hence the existence of a small barrel, but capable of delivering 60 hours of the "Grand 8".
