Brand revivals are fascinating to me—they are both a true challenge and profound responsibility. But when done right, they enrich the industry and inspire a new generation of watch enthusiasts.
Why are revivals of historic brands suddenly more relevant and numerous, it seems? Part of the answer lies in history. The quartz crisis in the 1970s (and in fact the strong appreciation of the Swiss franc after the collapse of Bretton Woods) led to the disappearance of many extraordinary Swiss watch brands—brands with substance. Today, those stories are still remembered and also resonate increasingly also with a younger audience that shows interest in vintage watches. At the same time, the luxury market has evolved. There is a growing appetite for brands that feel real and authentic and people are looking for something new and innovative in the watch industry.
Reviving a brand is one of the most rewarding and the most complex challenges in business. But let’s be clear: most attempts fail. Why? Because people underestimate what it truly takes. First, you need humility. When you revive a historic brand, you are not starting on a blank page. You are stepping into a legacy. That means listening—really listening—to collectors, historians and experts who understand the brand in every detail. That discipline is essential to avoid irreversible mistakes. And yet you need to find your own voice, the voice of a brand that has long laid dormant and wants to be heard again.
Looking at brands that have disappeared, we often see the problem immediately: outdated positioning, lack of substance and history, and no distinct product design. In many cases, you inherit more problems than opportunities.
When we decided to revive Universal Genève, everything was there: a great name, a rich history, iconic products, a strong collector community, and a certain myth. But crucially, no liabilities.
And still these are the best preconditions, but no guarantee for success. There are various examples of brands with long tradition, formerly strong brand recognition and clear design codes but that did not manage a successful revival. Most often it is due to:
- Lack of clear positioning: A loss in identity.
- Weak product narrative: Missing hero products and related storytelling to anchor the comeback.
- Insufficient emotional connection: Heritage is not translated into today’s world.
- Strategic inconsistency: Changes in ownership and direction, disrupting long-term planning.
- Underestimating complexity: Treating the revival as a licensing or branding exercise rather than a full rebuild.
How can this happen? Here are my three don’ts, based on my 25 years of experience in the watch industry:
Don’t rely on history alone.
Heritage without reinterpretation is museum work. A revived brand must offer a clear added value today—through design, craftsmanship, and cultural relevance. With Universal Genève, we are not just reviving iconic products—we are reinterpreting them, expanding the identity of Le Couturier de la Montre, and creating something relevant that speaks not only to collectors, but to a broader, modern audience.
Don’t do it halfway.
There is no such thing as a “soft” relaunch when you revive a brand. If you are not fully committed—financially, creatively, strategically—you will fail. Energy, focus and commitment are everything.
Don’t go to market without an added value.
In the high-end watch industry—similarly to the car industry—you broadly have two dominant poles: the traditional brands and the hyper-expressive players. If you don’t define your own territory, you will be lost. We deliberately chose the free path in between the two extremes. With a fresh new approach—combining technical excellence and “métiers d’art” with creative freedom, we are bringing a certain “couturier mindset” into watchmaking.
Ok, don’ts may seem easy. But what about the dos? Brand revivals only work when all key elements come together. If one is missing, the entire construction can collapse.
The first step is vision. You must define, very concretely in a simple and clear way, what the brand stands for today. Not yesterday, not in theory, but in the reality of today’s market. “Relevance” for a modern luxury audience—not only collectors—means understanding that clients are design-conscious and are culturally aware. They look for authenticity, but also for emotion, aesthetics and a point of view. In short: they want a watch that reflects who they are. It is not enough to be historically correct—you must be desirable in today’s world.
The second step is structure and resources. Creativity and vision without strategy and execution are meaningless. Being strategically committed means building a real operating model: dedicated teams, long-term product planning, governance and controlled distribution. In our case, Breitling had the role of an incubator—leveraging manufacturing know-how and global infrastructure—while ensuring that Universal Genève remained fully independent in identity, design and positioning.
The third element is commitment. Financial, creative and planning commitment. This is where many underestimate the challenge. Being financially committed means accepting that for the first years, you will invest before you see real returns: investment in product development, in movements, in talent and in storytelling. You are not optimizing an existing business—you are creating one from scratch. There are no shortcuts and you cannot have the slightest doubt.
You need to show creative commitment. This means going beyond safe decisions. It requires the courage to reinterpret icons, to introduce new materials, design adaptations and to integrate new influences—without losing timelessness.
And finally, long-term planning and the right team are what ultimately safeguard quality. You cannot rush excellence. Every single element must be best-in-class and done with a long-term horizon, and you need to put all your energy and all your expertise into it. In luxury, especially at the super-luxury level, you must bring something genuinely new to the market. Otherwise, there is no reason to exist.
And perhaps the real lesson is: you are not reviving a brand’s legacy. You are creating the future that is worthy of it. All this we will also experience with Gallet, starting this fall.
On September 3, Georges Kern will be the special guest for the next SALON WORLDTEMPUS, where Anders Modig Davin will have a discussion with him on this topic. 40 spaces only, downtown Geneva. Time: 17.30-19.30. You are invited, RSVP here.
