The watch industry tends to love flaunting models that are recognizable at a glance without any need for a logo or signature. Jaquet Droz cherishes nothing more than the exact opposite, partly because its workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds is the antithesis of an industrial approach – and partly because all its watches are bespoke one-offs. No two collectors will ever be the same and hence there will never be two identical Jaquet Droz watches.
This “Philosophy of the Unique” can only be achieved through individual craftsmanship, as Jaquet Droz relies on a team of artisans who are experienced and above all specialized. All the authentic skills inherent to Swiss-made high-end horology are represented in La Chaux-de-Fonds, home to Jaquet Droz for three centuries: engraving, painting, sculpture, Grand Feu enamel, paillonné, gemsetting – and of course, watchmakers, as well as master hand-finishing.
These expert hands do infinitely more than simply replicate time-honored techniques, as Jaquet Droz is constantly innovating. The workshop devises new processes, such as gemsetting on Murano glass. The same applies to materials, for while gold and platinum reign supreme, they are no longer the sole options. Jaquet Droz explores contemporary techniques to extract the very best from them: silicon escapements, Super-LumiNova painting, as well as sapphire cases that are the only ones in the world to be entirely screw-free and 100% crafted in Switzerland. The only limit on this range of expression is that of collectors’ imagination.
Rare by nature
While watches can be glimpsed before they find their way onto the wrist of their lucky owner, a few examples have recently resurfaced: a Rolling Stones fan who designed an automaton inspired by the band’s Blue & Lonesome album; a supercar enthusiast who wanted to capture the spirit of a supercar in a whistling bird; and a timepiece depicting the ideal Japanese garden. One cannot reveal anything further and only a few exceptions still emerge from time to time, as they are designed in collaboration with prominent public figures such as a rock star (Jon Bon Jovi) or a fashion icon (Chantal Thomass).
For the rest, it is up to each individual to conceptualize the timepiece that suits them best, although these creations often do much more than merely keep track of time, as Jaquet Droz possesses the unique historic distinction of being a workshop that has mastered the subtle art of the wrist automaton for almost 300 years. Today, advances in miniaturization make it possible to hear the melody of a whistling bird, to observe carp swimming or a 33-rpm record spinning – all within a wristwatch.
The customer experience is core to the creative process
Each one-of-a-kind model is created by, for and with a collector. The creative impetus stems from close collaboration between the collector and the Maison’s various workshops, ranging from a general theme to a fully completed project. In every case, the Jaquet Droz teams cooperate closely with the collector to translate their vision into a reality that combines craftsmanship and technical expertise.
To this end, Jaquet Droz has developed a comprehensive ecosystem that immerses the collector into its world. The first stage is a welcome visit to the workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where the company has been based since 1738. There, the collector shares their vision, which the artists translate into sketches and then into technical drawings.
The magic happens when the project moves from 2D to 3D and from drawing to animation. This is the core of Jaquet Droz’ expertise. Every artisan plays a vital role in bringing the project to life: engravers to create the depth details; painters to add color and shadow; watchmakers to enliven the dial with various moving mechanisms; as well as gemsetters to enhance the composition with the sparkle of precious stones, as seen on the Ophidian Hour Red Gold: an animal and plant-inspired composition featuring a serpent crafted in relief from gold and entirely gemset by hand.
Between appointments in Switzerland, every collector also has the opportunity to log in to the Jaquet Droz Studio 8. This online space equipped with state-of-the-art immersive cameras enables collectors to follow the progress of their project in almost real time.
Among the latest one-of-a-kind pieces is a tribute to the Rolling Stones’ Blue & Lonesome album. At the center of the composition is the stage. It features miniature engravings of Ron Wood’s and Keith Richards’ guitars, as well as Mick Jagger’s microphone and harmonica: the latter measuring no more than a few tenths of a millimeter. A second circle is driven by an automaton. Its surface features vintage vinyl record grooves and the record makes a full spin in 30 seconds. In the 9 o’clock position, the Stones’ emblematic tongue moves up, down and wiggles, while the turntable arm just above it indicates the power reserve in real time.
Elsewhere, a collector has celebrated his love of mechanical engineering: that of his Italian supercar (featuring an hours’ dial inspired by the rev counter and its red zone); as well as with that of a whistling bird automaton. The latter is revealed at 6 o’clock, spinning on its axis and flapping its wings. The surrounding mechanism is entirely visible, much like the steering wheel at 3 o’clock, a nod to the automotive world which regulates the tempo of the musical sequence that can last up to 30 seconds. Nonetheless, the bird theme – a favorite in Jaquet Droz’s naturalist repertoire – can also be expressed through an explosion of colors, as Jaquet Droz explores Inflatable Art for the first time. Shapes come to life with a sense of lightness: on the Joyful Birds “Great Wall,” birds and flowers radiate vitality and color against the backdrop of the Great Wall of China. Conversely, some collectors prioritize an ultra-realistic rendering. The Petite Heure Minute Red Gold “Japanese Garden” thus captures the beauty and harmony of a temple overlooking a garden adorned with cherry trees and koi carp. With a profusion of hand-carved and engraved white mother-of-pearl, Jaquet Droz has crafted a rare and precious landscape laid out across multiple levels.
