Nomos has earned a devoted following among collectors who appreciate clean, understated watchmaking executed with precision and rigor, yet never without a touch of originality. While its Glashütte roots continue to shape the brand's unmistakably German design philosophy, Nomos has broadened its appeal in recent years through colorful dials, a fresher communication style, and imaginative initiatives such as Twice Unique, a bespoke program that pairs two watches with an exclusive dial—one crafted in gold, the other in steel.
Its product lineup is equally disciplined. The catalog consists of just 13 collections powered by 13 calibers, representing a total of 189 references. Compare that with roughly 1,300 references at Longines or more than 400 at Omega, and Nomos' deliberately focused approach becomes immediately apparent. Until recently, nearly all of those watches shared one defining characteristic: they were made of steel.
A New Chapter—or the Next Logical Step?
For years, Nomos reserved gold for only two collections, the Lambda and the Lux, both positioned within the brand's more exclusive, high-end offering. That changed in November 2025, when gold versions of the Tangente and Ludwig were introduced. A few months later, the company announced that additional collections would gradually join them, offering customers a choice between steel and gold. Today, five of the brand's 13 collections are available in the precious metal: Tangente, Orion, Ludwig, Tetra, and Metro.
Although this is a segment Nomos had never seriously explored before, the move feels like a natural evolution. Gold gives the brand's best-known designs a richer, warmer character while preserving their unmistakable identity.
For the first time, buyers can purchase Nomos' entry-level mechanical watches in solid gold. Priced at around CHF 12,000, these new models were welcomed by retailers and customers alike, even if they represent a significant premium. A steel Tangente sells for under CHF 3,500, whereas the gold version costs nearly CHF 12,500—about three and a half times more.
Redefining the Brand's Position
The implications extend far beyond price tags. Nomos is no longer targeting only the entry-level mechanical watch market; it is moving decisively into the mid-range segment. A steel watch can often be purchased on impulse. A gold watch costing well over CHF 10,000 is a considered acquisition. It also occupies a different place in its owner's life, transforming from an everyday companion into a watch suited to professional settings—or even formal occasions.
Expanding gold across the core collections is therefore much more than a simple product extension. It reflects a broader repositioning of the brand. Once its timepieces cross the CHF 12,000 threshold, Nomos moves beyond competitors such as Baume & Mercier and Longines and enters territory shared by Omega, Cartier, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.
The brand sees the transition as a perfectly natural development.
"Demand is strong, and Tangente, Orion, Ludwig, and Tetra have demonstrated their timeless character over the decades. Eighteen-karat gold now reveals a new side of these iconic designs. Following our limited gold editions and the introduction of our Lux and Lambda haute horlogerie collections in 2013, gold is becoming a permanent part of our catalog for the first time, alongside stainless steel. The silhouettes remain unchanged, as does our design language. Gold simply offers another interpretation. It does not transform our creations—it allows them to evolve. This is not a change of direction, but the logical continuation of our journey."
The timing also reflects broader market dynamics. By the end of 2025, the total value of watches sold between CHF 500 and CHF 3,000 had only just recovered to its 2020 level. That segment has remained essentially unchanged in volume for the past 25 years and has shown virtually no growth over the past two. The market above CHF 3,000 tells a very different story: since 2000, its value has increased sixfold.
FAQ:
Q: What is Nomos?
A: Nomos is a German watch manufacture renowned for its minimalist, rigorous, and precise design philosophy. The brand offers a focused lineup of 13 collections and 189 references, compared with more than 1,300 at Longines, and has gradually expanded its 18K gold offering to five of its collections.
Q: What is the Nomos Tangente?
A: The Nomos Tangente is one of the brand's signature models, now available in both stainless steel and 18K gold. A stainless steel version sells for around CHF 3,500, while its 18K gold counterpart costs approximately CHF 12,500, representing a price difference by a factor of 3.5.
Q: Where is the Nomos manufacture based?
A: The Nomos manufacture is based in Glashütte, Germany, a town associated with the German precision that defines the brand's style. It is there that Nomos develops its 13 calibers and all of its collections, which are now gradually being offered in both gold and steel.
Q: How much does a gold watch cost?
A: At Nomos, a gold watch costs around CHF 12,000, compared with less than CHF 3,500 for the equivalent steel model—a difference by a factor of 3.5. This positioning moves the brand from the entry-level segment into the mid-range, placing it closer to Omega, Cartier, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.
