How far will they go? The question is on everyone’s lips. The tandem Bulgari & Concepto has pushed the boundaries of ultra-thinness across all disciplines: manual pieces, automatic, with or without tourbillon, COSC certified or not, etc. Each has broken a world record, won the most prestigious awards, without sacrificing aesthetics or wearability. Until when?
What are the main challenges in designing an ultra-thin movement?
Some components cannot be thinned indefinitely. First, there’s the barrel. If you want to ensure sufficient torque and a decent power reserve, there are certain values below which you cannot go. To achieve thinness, you need to use construction and decoration tricks. For example, the barrel lid is removed.
Then there’s the escapement. It is usually built on two or three levels. Today, we can reduce it to a single level, but by definition, we cannot go further. For the watch to function correctly, there are also inertia values that cannot be indefinitely reduced. Finally, there's time setting. A traditional design cannot be reduced without becoming too delicate in terms of play and the robustness of the components.
Does this type of design require special watchmaking skills?
Yes. All operational tolerances are tighter than on a classic caliber. The watchmaker dedicates a significant amount of time for very precise play and adjustments. A lot of mastery and rigor are necessary. We have four full-time people who work only on Bulgari's Octo Finissimo.
Can one work on an ultra-thin like on a traditional movement?
No. Only casing is approximately normal. For the rest, nothing is conventional. This is mainly due to the use of unconventional materials like tungsten carbide. We use it for the case as it offers better properties than titanium in this function. We also had to find tricks in terms of positioning to avoid deforming the parts during assembly.
Are the usual standards you work with applicable to ultra-thin?
Our standards or criteria (rate, amplitude, power reserve) are the same as for a traditional movement. Whether it's COSC certified or not doesn't change anything. However, in terms of waterproofing, we are closer to jewelry watches. They can't withstand too much repeated pressure. They aren't dive watches, but they are suitable for daily use.
Why has Concepto been able to take such a lead in the ultra-thin subject?
Three things. First, we remain a 100% family-owned and independent company. Our clients and teams choose each other mutually. We regularly work with about twenty very loyal brands, like Bulgari, which allows us to know each other better and therefore go further together. Then, our technical capabilities. We own our equipment, all state-of-the-art. To achieve the Octo Finissimo Ultra, we invested in dedicated equipment to, once again, push our limits. Finally, the most important: the experience. We have 190 employees. It takes us less than a year to develop a new ultra-thin record, thanks to the start-up spirit we maintain.
Bonus question troubling the watchmaking community: have we reached the limits of the ultra-thin?
Not the limits, but we are getting close. After that, we might still gain a few tenths of millimeters, or even a few hundredths, but what's the point? And will these pieces be wearable? That will be the brands' choice...
