From the 18th century onward, Pierre Jaquet-Droz, watchmaker and inventor, and later his descendants, never ceased to explore the poetry of movement through automata that fascinated both by their aesthetics and the complexity of their mechanisms. The miniaturization of components made it possible to transpose the dreamlike world of the family’s creations into the heart of the timepieces assembled in the workshops of La Chaux-de-Fonds.
The expertise passed down through generations finds a rare resonance at Jaquet Droz. Heir to the mechanical marvels of the past, the brand continues into the 21st century this art capable of stirring emotion. In 2012, The Bird Repeater became an ode to this living heritage. The watch combines visual spectacle with horological virtuosity.
Under a dome, a pair of birds moves delicately, witnessing the hatching of an egg. This poetic creation is set to the rhythm of the chimes of a minute repeater. A decade later, the contemporary Charming Bird Titanium model still embodies this desire for continuity.
A tiny bird measuring 13.5 mm, engraved and hand-painted, truly chirps thanks to a system of pistons and compressed air. The automaton has its own power reserve, wound by the crown at 2 o’clock. Pressing the coaxial button activates the animation. It lasts about 30 seconds, during which three notes create an enchanting melody. The bird, placed under a sapphire dome, then comes to life—opening its beak, turning on itself, flapping its wings and tail. Space is not limited to display; it encourages movement.
To suggest rather than to show. The exercise is mastered. Jaquet Droz pushes its expertise toward a form of perfection where transparency becomes an essential material. The Tourbillon Skelet Sapphire Opal stands out as a masterful demonstration of this art of purity.
Its 100% sapphire case abolishes boundaries, allowing light to flow freely. Photons envelop the flying tourbillon and the hours-and-minutes dial forming the brand’s iconic figure-eight architecture, a symbol of infinity dear to Jaquet Droz. The iridescent reflections of the opal, a fine stone chosen for its brilliance, shift with the angle of view cast upon the watch. Transparency also allows the bridges and the gold oscillating weight to contribute to this uniquely singular aesthetic.
In the thoughtful use of translucent materials, everything fades away except the essential. The Tourbillon Skelet Sapphire – Bushidô takes as its central theme the medieval world of the samurai. No visual barrier disrupts the view of the Japanese warrior’s mask resting within the 42 mm case. Engraving, painting, enameling, and gem-setting came together to complete this exclusive creation—after 200 hours of work—with not a single flat surface.
The sapphire case back reveals the architecture of the self-winding movement. Moreover, graphic harmony is achieved between the tourbillon positioned at 12 o’clock and the barrel at 6 o’clock. The openworked oscillating weight, machined in red gold, enhances the view of the movement and the back of the mask adorned with sakura, the cherry blossoms.
“Its main surface is hand-painted, but its horns are made of translucent enamel… The recessed engraving on its red gold base highlights the eyes, nose, and mouth with a fine line of gold. The face features—and this is a first for Jaquet Droz—a setting of Murano glass beads, enhancing at times the dominant jade color, at others the menacing red accents that also appear on the two hand-painted hands,” the brand explains internally.
The number 8
At Jaquet Droz, the number 8 is more than just a numeral. Its presence symbolizes the two infinite dimensions that govern the universe—space and time. It takes form within the creations where two circular dials unite to create a stylized eight. This presence also allows for a rigorous and balanced composition of the watch dials.
A minimalist aesthetic
Clean lines, off-centered dials, plays on symmetry… Geometry, according to Jaquet Droz, has made emptiness a remarkable element that expands the possibilities of watch design. Absence brings harmony and legibility. Simplicity serves a discreet complexity.
In the service of tradition
Even when it harnesses the properties of modern or precious materials, the brand puts them at the service of its technical mastery, demonstrating its ability to design exceptional high-end watch movements.
Playing with transparency also allows a component of a timepiece to be highlighted. On the dial of the Red Gold Tourbillon Catrina Skull, Jaquet Droz reminds us that, in Mexican culture, death is not an end but a celebration, through a reinterpretation of the famous Day of the Dead, Dia de los Muertos. An off-centered skull adorned with vivid colors and floral motifs comes to life through the precise gestures of the artisans. Miniature painting, gold flakes, and grand feu enamel combine to give depth and brilliance to this symbolic composition.
The fleeting beauty of time is also embodied in the eye of vanity through the magnetic rotations of the flying tourbillon. In this translucent space, every element contributes to this suspended kinetic sculpture. Once again, light diffracts within, highlighting the regulating organ in every detail.
Through these translucent creations, Jaquet Droz transforms the watch into a work of art. Shadow and light, mechanics and material, engage in a compelling dialogue with a focus on balance. Transparency becomes self-evident.
