More than a watch, a style
We are at the end of the 1980s in 1987 precisely when Chanel entered the world of watchmaking and unveiled its Première. If it is indeed the first watch of the house it could not have borne a better name it is above all first in its style which makes it unique within this very codified watchmaking world. The Maison does not seek to fit into the Swiss watchmaking tradition. On the contrary it chooses to bypass it by creating a jewelry watch that incorporates the codes that are its own. Its octagonal case — inspired both by the shape of the N°5 perfume stopper and the geometric layout of Place Vendôme — breaks with the conventional roundness of feminine watches of the time. Its lacquered dial is of disarming sobriety. Without indexes or a seconds hand it asserts another temporality the one of style rather than technical performance. Its chain bracelet interlaced with leather completes this watch of a new kind. Directly inspired by the 2.55 bag it very distinctly places the Première in the Chanel wardrobe. From its launch the Première imposes a language.
An icon in motion
The Première has never stopped evolving over the years without ever denying its original design. It settled on a soft satin ribbon for special evenings ventured into ceramic or titanium to show that it is always at the forefront and adorned itself with a double tour bracelet evoking the measuring tape of the seamstresses’ workshops. It has also welcomed charms in the form of a dice safety pin and Stockman mannequin all nods to the world of fashion and the creative gestures of Gabrielle Chanel. More recently the Première has explored even more unexpected territories cuff belt necklace until becoming with the Première Sound a connected jewel subverting the codes of the wired earphone. Never frozen the Première gladly lends itself to play and surprise.
Red: a declaration of love
Today the Première Ruban Rouge takes the stage in watchmaking. It reveals itself in a shade it had never explored before. A tone that seems to want to assert itself again at Chanel the Maison having recently unveiled a makeup collection called Rouge Noir. Here it is a flamboyant red that dresses the Première. Red in the world of Chanel? It is an essential color dear to Gabrielle. "Red is life" said the French creator a phrase that alone sums up the instinctive almost vital relationship she had with this shade. Love passion strength power boldness this color rich in symbolism warms the heart. Thus Chanel declares its flame to its icon.
On this Première red expresses itself with intensity. The sunburst lacquered dial captures the light and plays with its reflections giving depth to a deliberately pared-down surface. The velvet-touch rubber strap a contemporary interpretation of the ribbon wraps the wrist gently reinforcing the couture dimension of the piece. While the Première Ruban Rouge claims a stylistic approach it does not forget its preciousness with its yellow gold case and its crown set with a discreet natural brilliant-cut diamond. In watchmaking as in couture Chanel reminds of the attention it always pays to details.
