This rapid success owes much to Bulgari’s consistent habit of embarking on daring experiments with cutting-edge alloys and avant-garde finishes. And, of course, being Italian doesn’t hurt either.
Reflecting on how titanium became the material of choice for the record-breaking Octo Finissimo watches, Fabrizio Buonamassa, Head of Design at Bulgari Watches, offers insights. “Titanium was chosen for its unique qualities”, he explains. “I proposed titanium but the reaction was a bit cold; someone said that this material was not noble enough for one of the noblest complications of the Swiss watchmaking heritage. I countered by reminding them that we are Italian and that not many brands were using titanium. I wanted this material for both case and dial with a sandblasted finish to highlight the very unique color of this metal. We were able to turn a technical constraint into an opportunity to create a new aesthetic like you often see in the Italian industrial design approach.”
Presented in 2016, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in a titanium case earned Bulgari its second “world’s thinnest” record with its BVL 362 movement measuring a mere 3.12mm thick. From that moment on, Bulgari has continued to captivate year after year with new ultra-thin timepieces, all clad in the signature monochromatic titanium attire. Bulgari also revisits past models, crafting watches from a range of materials, including steel, ceramic, gold, tantalum and carbon composite.
Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic Ref. 103779
CASE: carbon composite, transparent caseback, water resistance to 100m
SIZE: 40 x 6.9mm
DIAL: carbon dial with gold-toned hands and hour-markers
MOVEMENT: BVL 138 caliber, ultra-thin automatic, 3Hz, 60h power reserve
FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds
BRACELET: carbon composite, with folding clasp
Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar Ref. 103778
CASE: carbon composite, transparent caseback, water resistance to 100m
SIZE: 43 x 7.6mm
DIAL: carbon dial with goldtoned hands and hour-markers
MOVEMENT: BVL 305 caliber, ultra-thin automatic, 3Hz, 60h power reserve
FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, retrograde date, day, month and retrograde leap year
BRACELET: carbon composite, with folding clasp
The perfect fusion
Our selection highlights a few Octo Finissimo watches that showcase the fusion of the Italian approach to design and Swiss watchmaking traditions bolstered by modern technological advancements: starting with with the CarbonGold Automatic and Perpetual Calendar models which brought a fresh perspective to the Octo style by juxtaposing the high-tech, textured anthracite carbon with gold accents – a luxurious duo of sporty timepieces that excel in water resistance.
These watches feature a titanium container for the movement onto which carbon composite parts are assembled. Enhanced water resistance to 100 meters is achieved through the use of a thicker sapphire crystal and a screw-down crown. According to Philippe Saltarski, responsible for Bulgari Watch Development & Quality Assurance, waterproofing thin watches is not necessarily more challenging; the difficulty lies in integrating all the functions seamlessly. The ability to withstand water pressure is determined by factors such as the design, construction, strength-to-weight ratio, elasticity and resistance to deformation. For instance, the sapphire crystal on the CarbonGold models is 1.3mm thick, compared to just under a millimeter on earlier Finissimo models.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton Chronograph Ref. 103796 (2023)
CASE: satin and polished 18k yellow gold, sapphire crystals front and back, water resistance to 30m
SIZE: 43 x 7.4mm
DIAL: openworked with sun-brushed yellow gold chronograph counters and inner flange
MOVEMENT: BVL 388 caliber, ultra-thin automatic, 3Hz, 52h power reserve
FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, one-minute tourbillon, chronograph, mode selector
BRACELET: 18k yellow gold satin-brushed and polished, with folding clasp
A stunning timepiece, both visually and technically
In 2020, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton Chronograph debuted, clad in its classic titanium attire, clinching Bulgari’s sixth world record for thinness. This technical marvel seamlessly merged some of the most intricate features, reaffirming the Italian brand’s dominance in ultra-thin watchmaking. With a svelte 3.50mm profile, its self-winding BVL 388 movement with a peripheral rotor is a marvel, housing a one-minute tourbillon operating at 3Hz, a mono-pusher chronograph equipped with a column wheel, a mode selector for transitioning between winding and time-setting.
In 2023, following the definitive sandblasted grade 5 titanium model, it was time for one of the most complicated timepieces in the collection to shine in a warmer and more opulent 18k yellow gold, with every element of the case and bracelet meticulously crafted from this luxurious alloy.
The dial featured a yellow gold-toned module that seamlessly integrated the inner flange and chronograph sub-counters. Time was elegantly conveyed through the openworked black-toned hands, creating a striking contrast for a watch of this caliber. Remarkably, while identical to the titanium model, the layout maintained its irresistible appeal, characterized by a captivating sense of symmetry. The finishing on both sides is impeccable, with the back revealing a modern and intricate design where the chronograph mechanism took center stage. The two tones, yellow gold and titanium complemented each other perfectly.
An expression of very pure and rigourous design vision
The Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days was first released last year a luxurious gold version with an anthracite grey movement. While it may not have achieved record-breaking status like some of its counterparts in the fascinating Octo Finissimo collection, the Skeleton 8 Days watch is undeniably impressive. It harnesses 192 hours of energy from the in-house Caliber BVL 199SK housing a single barrel and measuring a mere 2.5mm thick. When the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days returned in 2023 in full titanium attire, adorned in the monochromatic style of the collection, it received a warm welcome.
This hand-wound Octo Finissimo timepiece, crafted from titanium encompassing the 40mm-dimaeter and 5.95mm-thick case, integrated bracelet and dial, is slightly thicker than the classic Octo Finissimo Automatic yet boasts an impressive weeklong power reserve. The case maintains the intricate design signature of the Octo Finissimo collection – with its combination of octagonal and round shapes, as well as the use of sandblasted titanium, the preferred metal for most models in the Octo Finissimo collection – thus creating a distinct aesthetic and delivering a unique ownership experience. Again, this watch may not be a record-breaker, but it is very much on at the pinnacle Octo Finissimo’s achievements.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days in Titanium creates a distinct aesthetic and delivers a unique ownership experience.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days Ref. 103610 (2023)
CASE: titanium, water-resistant to 30m, transparent caseback
SIZE: 40 x 5.95mm
DIAL: openworked
MOVEMENT: BVL 199 SK caliber, ultra-thin manual winding, 3Hz, 192h power reserve
FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, small seconds, power-reserve indicator
BRACELET: titanium bracelet with three-blade folding clasp
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Ref. 103661 (2022)
CASE: stainless steel, water-resistant to 100m, transparent case back
SIZE: 43 x 8.75mm
DIAL: silvered with vertical brushes finishing, rhodium-plated hour-markers with SLN
MOVEMENT: BVL 318, ultra-thin automatic, 3Hz, 60h power reserve
FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, small seconds, second time zone, chrono functions
BRACELET: satin-polished stainless steel bracelet and folding clasp
Sporty, opulent, innovate !
In 2019, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT etched its name in horological history by redefining the limits of thinness. Its sandblasted titanium case, a mere 6.90mm thick, cradled the remarkably slender BVL 318 movement measuring just 3.30mm. This extraordinary timepiece secured its place as the world’s thinnest automatic chronograph, with the added complexity of a GMT complication.
The following year, this ultra-thin marvel found a new home in a larger steel case, donning an exquisite blue dial. In 2022, Bulgari unveiled yet another iteration, an all-steel version featuring a silver-toned dial, perfectly encapsulating the iconic aesthetic synonymous with the Octo Finissimo lineage.
Bulgari’s decision to fortify the Octo Finissimo case for enhanced durability and water resistance ushered in a sportier, more robust timepiece ideal for everyday wear. While the stainless steel case experienced a slight enlargement, expanding from 42mm to 43mm and an increase in thickness from 6.90mm to 8.75mm, this transformation came with a significant payoff: an impressive surge in water resistance from 30m to 100m. Remarkably, the case retained its slim and intricate octagonal architecture, replete with a myriad facets. Bulgari harnessed the inherent qualities of steel, introducing a captivating blend of textures, from a radial-brushed bezel to vertically satin-finished surfaces on the case and bracelet, embellished with polished accents.
In any iteration, the Octo Finissimo Automatic exudes an unmistakable air of luxury and sophistication.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Ref. 102912 (2020)
CASE: sandblasted 18k pink gold, sapphire crystals front and back, water resistance to 30m
SIZE: 40 x 5.15mm
MOVEMENT: BVL 138 caliber, ultra-thin automatic, 3Hz, 60h power reserve
FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds
BRACELET: pink gold bracelet with double folding clasp
The allure of sophistication
With every fresh iteration of the beloved Octo Finissimo model, the use of novel materials and finishes breathes new life into its appearance, unveiling a beguiling and distinct aesthetic. While the titanium Octo Finissimo Automatic from 2017 etched its place in history as a record-holder, it is only fitting to reserve a special spot for the 2020 version, cast in sandblasted pink gold – a true showstopper.
The Octo Finissimo Automatic possesses dimensions that make it a true standout. With a 40mm width and 45mm lug-to-lug length, its flat caseback ensures an even and comfortable fit on the wrist. Its wide lugs establish a broad and balanced connection point between the case and bracelet, akin to the comfort of a cuff. This design endows the Octo Finissimo with a wrist presence unlike any other watch, especially the Octo Finissimo Automatic Ref. 102912, in sandblasted pink gold. Its aesthetic radiates modernity, style, and a sense of luxurious fun when adorning the wrist. Within this captivating case design resides Bulgari’s automatic BVL 138 movement. In any iteration, the Octo Finissimo Automatic manifests an unmistakable air of luxury and sophistication, with this movement showcasing the level of craftsmanship required to compete at this echelon.
Although it may appear identical in form to its titanium counterpart, the ceramic Octo Finissimo Automatic is constructed with a distinct approach.
A technical and aesthetic challenge
Among the materials now gracing the Octo Finissimo collection, ceramic takes its rightful place, with only a few ceramic models possessing a magnetic allure. From various perspectives, the matt black ceramic Octo Finissimo Automatic (2019) emerges as a resounding success story.
The Automatic Ref. 103077 is a timepiece nearly entirely composed of ceramic. Except for the movement, hands, and bracelet pins, every element, from the dial to the clasp, exudes ceramic craftsmanship. Although it may appear identical in form to its titanium counterpart, the ceramic Octo Finissimo Automatic is constructed with a distinct approach. Crafting it is a challenge, as traditional screws cannot be used with ceramic. Instead, the ceramic case middle is nestled between the bezel and back. The bezel consists of a ceramic cap atop a titanium inner bezel, featuring tubes to accommodate not the conventional casebackscrews but hex-head bolts instead. These bolts secure the entire case structure by entering through the back and traversing special shafts into the titanium bezel, effectively holding the watch together.
Beyond its technical achievements, the Octo Finissimo Ceramic Automatic seamlessly marries this cutting-edge caliber with an elaborate, lightweight ceramic case and captivatingly monochromatic ceramic dial, resulting in a watch of unparalleled style.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic Automatic Ref. 103077 (2019)
CASE: black ceramic, water-resistant to 30m, transparent caseback
SIZE: 40 x 5.5mm
DIAL: ceramic
MOVEMENT: BVL138, ultrathin automatic, 3Hz, 60h power reserve
FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds
BRACELET: black ceramic with a folding clasp
Octo Finissimo Automatic Ref. 102713 (2017)
CASE: sandblasted titanium, transparent caseback, water resistance to 30m
SIZE: 40 x 5.15mm
DIAL: titanium dial, black hands with PVD treatment
MOVEMENT: BVL 138 caliber, ultra-thin automatic, 3Hz, 60h power reserve
FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds
BRACELET: titanium with folding clasp
The strenght of a style
The Octo Finissimo Automatic marked Bulgari’s third world record achievement in ultra-thin (5.15mm) watchmaking. It succeeded the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon from 2014, which boasted a remarkably slim 1.95mm thick movement, and the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater from 2016, equipped with Caliber BVL 362 measuring a mere 3.12mm. Still, it’s safe to say that the more accessible Octo Finissimo Automatic with its BVL 138 self-winding micro-rotor movement, only 2.23mm thick and 36.60mm in diameter, played a pivotal role in solidifying the iconic status of the Octo Finissimo series.
The Octo Finissimo Automatic resides within the distinct multifaceted case that defines the collection. Crafted from sandblasted titanium with a titanium dial, it marked the second record-breaking ultra-thin Bulgari watch presented in this material, eventually becoming the series’ signature look. Bulgari combined Swiss watchmaking expertise with Italian design flair, forging a powerful combination that enabled the brand to excel in numerous technical categories while maintaining a distinctive design language. Over the years, as observers have doubtless noticed, Bulgari has released various iterations of the Automatic to underscore its willingness to experiment with diverse materials and textures. Nevertheless, with its matt, textured appearance, the sandblasted titanium Octo Finissimo Automatic remains an exceptional standout.
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