Watchmakers now use secret signatures to prove the origin of some of their watches, to differentiate them from a look-alike version or to pay homage to a story... All this without forgetting that a secret signature remains an excellent means of combating copies.
Patek Philippe and Chopard have their own stratagems for differentiating between steel and platinum. TAG Heuer pays tribute to the golden age of Formula 1 racing. Zenith gives itself its own Pantone reference to celebrate 160 years of success. As for Breguet, it reintroduces a secret signature, created by a vintage pantograph, thought up by the watchmaking genius in the aftermath of the French Revolution.
A signature
After the Revolution, Abraham-Louis Breguet returned to Paris and had to relaunch his company. He came up with the idea of a subscription system - in particular for a single-hand pocket watch. The term "souscription" appeared in the company's records as early as 1796, and this single-hand watch was marketed from 1797. The principle was simple: if a customer wished to purchase the watch, he confirmed his order by paying a quarter of the price. This advance enabled the engineer to purchase the supplies needed to manufacture the watch. To combat copies of his watches - he introduces a secret signature engraved in the enamel.
As part of its 250th anniversary, Breguet presents the Classique Souscription 2025 in Paris, which perfectly encapsulates this beautiful story. The white dial in grand feu enamel features the secret period signature - made by an old pantograph. As originally, a quarter of the price is paid when the order is placed and the balance on delivery.
A diamond
The only way to prove to anyone that your Patek Philippe is indeed made of platinum is to show the diamond discreetly set on the edge of its case... Yes, quite simply, thanks to the good idea of the Stern family, owners of Patek Philippe, who were looking for an elegant and discreet way to prove the authenticity of their platinum creations.
"We asked ourselves how we could show the difference, how we could make it so that people could see that it was a platinum piece, without writing it on the dial. We wanted to find a discreet way, without fanfare, and suitable for all our watches. We looked into various avenues, and all of a sudden my father said, "Why don't we just put a little diamond somewhere on the case?" It's that simple", says Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe.
And so, since 1999, all platinum timepieces leaving the Patek Philippe workshops feature a small Top Wesselton Pur brilliant-cut diamond, nestled in the case middle between the bracelet lugs at 6 or 12 o'clock depending on the model, and of varying size. "We never said it would always be the same size," jokes Thierry Stern. A secret signature that is also evident on the platinum version of the Cubitus, but this time with a baguette-cut diamond to harmonize with the square case of the new model.
A bee
For the same reasons as Patek Philippe, Chopard has opted this year for a secret signature to differentiate its platinum watches from those in steel. The manufacture now uses the bee symbol as its in-house hallmark, hand-engraved on the side of the case, to identify its platinum timepieces.
For those wondering why a bee, the insect has actually been legitimate at Chopard since Louis-Ulysse Chopard in the XIXᵉ century. The bee is one of the symbols of the Manufacture. Hard-working, honest, modest, the linchpin of a whole that holds together through collaboration, it is the perfect embodiment of the values with which the Chopard workshops have never ceased to identify.
A crown
During the golden age of Formula 1, drivers crossing the finish line to the cheers of the crowd were presented with a laurel wreath, a timeless symbol of victory and excellence.
TAG Heuer celebrates these memorable moments with its 2025 Carrera watch. A discreet yet significant addition: a laurel wreath is now engraved on the caseback of the Carrera Day-Date. This symbol of achievement associates the watch with victory, reminding customers that success can accompany them throughout their lives.
A blue
To celebrate 160 years of success, Zenith is unveiling a blue ceramic anniversary collection. But not just any blue. A blue based on Pantone 661C.
It's found on a trio of watches, three of Zenith's most iconic chronographs: the Chronomaster Sport, the Defy Skyline Chronograph and the Pilot.
How does Zenith explain that blue is its emblematic color? Legend has it that the name Zenith was inspired by a starlit night sky. This vision came to its founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, in reference to the highest point reached by a star in the sky, symbolizing the ultimate excellence he was striving to achieve.
Since its creation, the company has relentlessly pursued this quest for perfection in every aspect of the art of watchmaking. In perfect harmony with this vision, and echoing the infinity of the sky, blue has become Zenith's emblematic color. Today, this emblem is sublimated on high-tech ceramics that are light, resistant, soft to the touch and virtually scratch-proof.
Absolute perfection, Georges Favre-Jacot's dream.
