Phillips Geneva Watch Auction, Our Picks

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RM 07-01 en céramique rose, 45,23 mm x 31, 40 mm, mouvement squelette automatique, bracelet en caoutchouc © James Olivier
4 minutes read
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo celebrated 10 years of selling timepieces at auction. Here are some favorites among the 199 lots presented at the Geneva Watch Auction XXI.

Marking a decade since its debut in the world of horology, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, returned to Geneva May 10th and 11th for a landmark watch auction. It was in May 2015 that the auction house held its first dedicated sale of timepieces, presenting just over 150 lots and setting a new tone in the auction world. 

Unlike many other auction houses, Phillips frequently achieves the remarkable feat of selling 100% of the lots offered during their watch auctions, a rarity in the industry. While this success is partly due to the careful curation of exceptional timepieces, it is above all driven by the charisma and skill of Aurel Bacs. More than just an auctioneer, Bacs transforms each sale into a true performance. His theatrical flair, dynamic presence and lively interaction with bidders create a captivating atmosphere, turning the auction into a show as much as a sale.

Now, 10 years later, Phillips celebrated its journey with an exceptional catalogue of 199 carefully selected watches. Here are my personal favorites and why I can’t help but envy their new owners. 

Audemars Piguet “Cobra” – sold for CHF 30’480

The Audemars Piguet reference 5587BC, famously nicknamed the “Cobra,” is a rare and striking example of avant-garde design from the brand’s pre-Royal Oak era. Released before the iconic 1972 model, this 34mm piece was designed by the legendary Gérald Genta and showcases a sleek, sculptural form reminiscent of a serpent. Its 18K white gold bracelet, crafted to resemble scales, blends seamlessly into the case creating a fluid and futuristic silhouette. The deep blue dial is elegantly balanced by two subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock, indicating the day and date in applied white gold markers. Uniting functionality with bold design, the “Cobra” stands as a testament to Audemars Piguet’s innovative spirit during the mid-20th century. A dress watch that remains as captivating today as it was groundbreaking then.

Audemars Piguet “Cobra” © James Olivier
Audemars Piguet “Cobra” © James Olivier

Patek Philippe Ref. 565 – sold for for CHF 355’600

The Patek Philippe reference 565 is a truly exceptional and historically significant timepiece. As one of the very first stainless steel models produced by the brand, it represents a pivotal shift toward more robust and sportier designs. This particular example, featuring a screwed-down case back and a deployante clasp Gay Frères chain bracelet, showcases Patek Philippe’s early exploration into waterproof watchmaking. The 35mm steel case offers a perfect vintage proportion that wears elegantly on the wrist while the supple bracelet ensures a comfortable and secure fit. The ivory-colored dial, beautifully aged, adds warmth and character. A timeless blend of practical design and refined craftsmanship, the reference 565 embodies both the spirit of early sports watches and the unmatched elegance of Patek Philippe. 

Patek Philip Ref. 565 © James Olivier
Patek Philippe Ref. 565 © James Olivier

Rolex Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona” – sold for CHF 533’400

There’s something undeniably special about the Rolex reference 6238, called “Pre-Daytona.” This particular piece, in warm 18K yellow gold with a perfectly preserved black glossy dial, feels more like a hidden gem than a mainstream icon. It is elegant without trying too hard, and its vintage charm comes through with its light scares of age. There is a quiet confidence to this watch: it doesn’t need to shout to be noticed. Lightweight, refined, and rich in history, it is the kind of timepiece that you find yourself wearing more than you ever expected, simply because it feels so right.

Rolex Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona” © James Olivier
Rolex Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona” © James Olivier

Audemars Piguet platinum and diamond-set bracelet watch – sold for CHF 95’250

The Audemars Piguet diamond bracelet watch represents the pinnacle of haute joaillerie watchmaking, where timepiece and jewelry become one extraordinary creation. Housing the legendary Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 101 movement, which is still the world's smallest mechanical movement since its 1929 debut, the watch is discreetly concealed within a meticulously arranged cascade of baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds catch and reflect light with every movement, creating a dazzling display that can't be ignored. Despite its substantial diamond presence, the bracelet maintains remarkable flexibility and comfort. This 1960s masterpiece exemplifies the era's creative exuberance while demonstrating Audemars Piguet's commitment to both technical innovation and artistic expression. A rare fusion of horological craftsmanship and high-jewelry expertise that continues to captivate collectors decades after its creation.

Audemars Piguet Jaeger-LeCoultre © James Olivier
Audemars Piguet platinum and diamond-set bracelet watch © James Olivier

Richard Mille RM07-01 “Blush Pink” – sold for CHF 203’200

The Richard Mille RM 07-01 in blush pink is a fresh and playful take on high-end watchmaking. Inspired by the bold Memphis design movement, its colorful asymmetrical shapes and pastel tones give the watch a unique charm. The soft pink TZP ceramic case isn’t just beautiful, it’s ultra-light, tough, and fits perfectly on smaller wrists thanks to its more compact size. Despite Richard Mille’s reputation for bold pieces, this model feels surprisingly delicate. Its pastel tone helps soften the design, making it appear less bulky while maintaining all the technical sophistication the brand is known for. A perfect blend of art, comfort, and innovation.

RM 07-01 en céramique rose, 45,23 mm x 31, 40 mm, mouvement squelette automatique, bracelet en caoutchouc © James Olivier
RM 07-01 © James Olivier

 

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