Story
Jacob & Co. together with Bugatti spent almost a year developing a unique timepiece that reproduces the visceral sensation of the iconic Bugatti 16-cylinder engine.
What they ended up creating is the groundbreaking Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon. Everything in this timepiece is designed to honor the Chiron hyper sports car. The sleek tonneau-shaped case is inspired by the flowing lines of the Chiron. The movement powers the timing functions and a 60-second flying tourbillon.
Most importantly inside the case is a fully operational recreation of the iconic Bugatti W16 engine, powered by the same movement. When the automation is activated, the "engine" comes to life with its 16 pistons pumping and two turbochargers spinning.
The Bugatti Chiron Blue Sapphire Crystal goes one step further by creating a watch case made completely out of sapphire crystal. It is one of the top achievements in high watchmaking. It was the result of several months of materials processing, high level machinery and hand polishing to produce a case that exposes every part of the 578 hand-decorated and hand-assembled components of the JCAM37 manual wound caliber, making this timepiece every bit as admirable as the car that serves as its inspiration.
Adding color to the sapphire crystal complicates the process of creating the Bugatti Chiron case further. However, the final results show that the effort is worth it as the case exhibits a unique Blue color while maintaining its transparency.
About The Partnership
In 2019, Bugatti and Jacob & Co. signed a multi-year partnership to create unique, never-before-seen timepieces. These watches are true to the spirit of both companies, while taking watchmaking to impossible heights.
To inaugurate this partnership led by performance, two timepieces were created. These watches, based on the Twin Turbo Furious and the Epic X Chrono, were directly inspired by the unique design and spirit of Bugatti hypercars.
In 2020, Jacob & Co. and Bugatti introduced new watches in the Twin Turbo Furious collection, and the Bugatti Chiron, a completely new line.
Engine Animation
Pushing the right crown activates a groundbreaking watch complication: a fully working replica of a Bugatti W16 engine. The crankshaft turns and 16 pistons pump up and down, just like a true internal combustion engine. Two "turbochargers" (down from four in the actual Chiron engine) on the side of the engine block spin while the engine runs, adding to the visual impact.
Incredible to see and unbelievably complicated to realize (the movement is comprised of 578 components), the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon timepiece has done something no one has ever even attempted before - to seamlessly marry engines and watches.
Back Of The Watch
The fully transparent sapphire caseback reveals more detail of the 578 hand-decorated and hand-assembled components of the JCAM37 manual wound caliber. This includes the two separate barrels and ratchet wheels: one for the engine animation and the one for timekeeping. The black box is the main plate of the movement. Everything is based on this. Also visible are many of the 51 jewels used in the movement. From every angle the Bugatti Chiron Blue Sapphire Crystal Case combines fine art, high craftsmanship and exceptional mechanics.
Tourbillon
The Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon features a 30º inclined tourbillon, the first time Jacob & Co. has ever used an inclined tourbillon. The "flying" part of the tourbillon means that the regulating organ is only supported on one side, so the tourbillon is even more mesmerizing. The 30º inclination makes it easier to admire this incredible complication through the replica of the Bugatti horseshoe-shaped grille.
Movement Suspension
The movement is completely suspended in four places, with what looks like actual automobile shocks from the Chiron. The movement is, in fact, floating inside the case. You can see it move up and down. Framing the engine block are two "exhausts," completing the engine theme of the design.
Power Reserve
The power reserves for the engine animation and the power reserve for timekeeping are different, yet both are wound through the winding crown, clockwise for the movement, counterclockwise for the engine animation. The power reserve indication for timekeeping even has the universal gas pump symbol on the side of the gauge at nine o'clock.
Crowns
The crowns for the watch are at the bottom of the case - the left crown sets the time, the middle crown winds both the movement (60 hours of power reserve) and the animation, and a push of the right-hand crown starts the animation.
The suspension of the movement caused an additional challenge for the designers, as they had to create and patent a special automotive-style jointed transverse system so the crown posts aren't damaged by the movement going up and down inside the case.
The power reserve for the animation and the power reserve for timekeeping are different, yet both are wound through the winding crown, clockwise for the movement, counterclockwise for the engine animation. The power reserve indication has the universal gas pump symbol on the side of the gauge at nine o'clock.
The Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon from Jacob & Co. is a world-first -- a true engine on the wrist.
Case & Crystal
A watch case made entirely out of sapphire crystal is one of the top achievements in high watchmaking. The Bugatti Chiron Blue Sapphire Crystal is the result of several months of computer-aided design and manufacturing processes and traditional hand polishing. It's a challenging, multi-faceted endeavor that takes several months to complete.
For example, the tonneau-shaped Chiron case isn't a singular exterior but a mix of geometric surfaces. Then there's the hardness of sapphire. It measures 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness. Very few materials are harder, including diamond, which measures a 10. Because of this, diamond cutting and polishing tools are used to craft the case. This is both costly and time consuming, but it's absolutely necessary to produce a case with the exact dimensions and transparency that the Chiron exhibits.
Adding color to the sapphire crystal complicates the manufacturing process. The sapphire crystal begins as a powder. This is when the color is created by combining to the powder a proprietary mix of rare earth elements (a set of 17 metallic elements that are difficult to mine and process), raw minerals and metals in a process called "doping." In order to a achieve a proper deep rich color, more of these minerals, elements and metals are added.
Then this powder is heated under extreme temperatures and grows to one very large round piece of raw sapphire, about the size and shape of a coffee can. This can take anywhere from three to 15 days. Adding the color, changes the chemistry of the sapphire and increases the chances that there will be inclusions in the piece, which will make it impossible to use. Then they will have to start again.
A slice is cut out of this large piece of colored sapphire that will become the case of the Bugatti Chiron. The piece is machined and hand-polished. Because the color affects the sapphire's chemical compensation, machining and hand-polishing must be conducted in a slower and more delicate manner. Again, adding to the time it takes to complete the process. Because of this added time and difficulty, producing colored sapphire is more expensive than clear sapphire.
The most challenging aspect is the hand polishing. It's the final task of the long and complex process. This same delicate technique is used for the caseback, the top, the three crowns and other pieces that are attached to the case. A single craftsman took about of 120 hours to complete the case. Every shape of every piece has a different polishing process. The different angles of the exteriors and interiors of the case required a delicate and steady hand. But the quality, including the transparency, must be consistent throughout.
The result is a fully transparent highly stylized case that exposes every part of the 578 hand-decorated and hand-assembled components of the JCAM37 manual wound caliber. This includes the groundbreaking fully functional replica of the Bugatti W16 engine with its pistons pumping, turbochargers spinning as well as the whirl of the flying one-minute tourbillon.
