Long confined to the fields of haute couture, theatre or show costumes, military parades and ornaments, feather art has in recent years gradually begun to lend a poetic touch to watch dials whose unique aesthetic offers an enchanting interpretation of time. While it is not the first artistic craft that watchmaking is adopting, it is definitely one of the rarest, since very few artisans have succeeded in safeguarding this expertise across successive eras. Feather working enjoyed its heyday in around 1860 to 1870 and peaked in the 20th century before dwindling to a far smaller scope. The war and various crises contributed to this loss of popularity, causing this subtle and marvellous art to become all but forgotten.
Amid the great wave of artistic crafts that watchmaking has been showcasing for the past decade or so, models adorned with feathers are some of the most original. A front-runner in this domain, Harry Winston has indeed created an elegant Midnight Feathers collection that is interpreted according to the variety, colour and texture of the feathers chosen. Silver pheasant, tinted guinea fowl, duck or peacock feathers: the extremely diverse possibilities afford an infinite variety of matt, shiny, colourful or geometrical-effect arrangements. Harry Winston provides a remarkable illustration of this craft with the Midnight Feathers Automatic 42mm. To create the elegant dial of this men’s watch, the artisan selected the finest domestic goose feathers and assembled them under the magnifying glass so as to create cleverly alternating contrasts. The deceptive appearances of this dial give the impression that this might almost be a subtle vetiver, cedarwood and bulrush marquetry. The artisan’s gestures are extremely precise and guided by a quest for harmony that calls for both technical mastery and artistic vision.
The Dior VII Grand Bal Cancan features a different technique as well as an airier style. The dial of this 88-piece limited edition is a true miniature marvel. Much like a magnificent evening dress, the dial and the oscillating weight are clothed in three layers of feathers. These light and vividly colourful peacock blue, yellow, black and white feathers belong to a rooster from Tuscany. Exquisitely assembled and as light as lacework, they emulate the extravagant splendour of a ball gown swirling across a dance floor and this delightful effect is perfectly framed by the diamond-set pink gold and ceramic case.
For Corum, the feather art gives rise to elegant dials highlighting the pristine beauty of bird feathers. Gifted with both patience and dexterity, the artist rigorously selects the finest feathers in terms of their stability, density, colour and resistance to damp. The observer cannot fail to be moved by the Feather Watch Blue Jay model graced by a marquetry of feathers from this beautiful bird and is also bound to appreciate the vibrant colours of the diamond-hemmed peacock feathers of the Feather Watch “Peacock Steel” and “Peacock Gold” creations. Available in both masculine and feminine versions, they offer magnificent demonstrations of creative panache.
